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How many routes a day?



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By TheChen
From Salem, OR
May 22, 2012

How many routes do you guys and ladies usually climb in a day of climbing?

Assuming you are just out for a day of climbing at the crag, not spending the whole day projecting...


Cheers


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By Brent Apgar
May 23, 2012
Me and Spearhead

The question is a little vague. If I'm up on the Diamond, I'm lucky to get in one route and if I'm out sport climbing there is typically some element of projecting involved.
Not sure exactly what you're looking for???

"How many routes do you guys and ladies usually climb in a day of climbing? Assuming you are just out for a day of climbing at the crag, not spending the whole day projecting."

Realseth: pretty sure it says climbing, not cragging. In this context crag refers to a climbing location, it's not a verb implying a style of climbing. So I may not know what he's asking but I'm not the one who's illiterate.


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By Realseth
May 23, 2012

TheChen.... just going out for a day of cragging, I usually climb 6-8 sport routes. But if I'm "craggin on the Diamond" like Brent.... Oh wait, climbing on the Diamond isnt cragging.. Guess he didnt understand the question.


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By Jeremy Bauman
From Lakewood, CO
May 23, 2012
Climbing the headwall of Second Comming

Seems like we usually will do about 5 trad routes in a day if we climb leisurely and take our time for lunch and such.


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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
May 23, 2012
The route in it's entirety.

trad or sport I seem to only get about 5-6 routes in per session.


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By Brian Adzima
From Pittsburgh
May 23, 2012
somewhere in WV

The longest days I have done have been 10-14 routes in rifle, some of them were TRs just to burn out at the end. Typically sport climbing 8-12 is more the norm. Gym climbing on 35 ft wall, 16-20 is what I will do when time allows. Lately its been like 1-3 routes per outside day due to a lack of motivated partners.


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By Cor
May 23, 2012
black nasty

cragging only happens on the diamond when
you do 3 or more routes... ya know, just
like a day cragging. no projecting.


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By camhead
From The Old Northwest
May 23, 2012
This painting was taken from engravings made during the 1859 Macomb Expedition, which attempted to locate the confluence of the Green and Colorado Rivers   in the present-day Needles District of Canyonlands National Park.  Anyone who has spent time in Indian Creek will recognize the features here. <br /> <br />If you're interested, the survey's official report, as well as more landscape paintings like this one, are available in full on google books. <br /> <br /><a href='http://books.google.com/books?id=674QAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=macomb+expedition&hl=en&sa=X&ei=DvEeT9KcFvC40gHIuukH&ved=0CDkQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q=macomb%20expedition&f=false' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >books.google.com/books?id=674QAAAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&d>>></a>

When I was just a beginning climber, we would often do 10 or more routes a day, and be on the rock from dawn to dusk. As I got more into sport projecting, I gradually found myself sleeping in more, and sometimes doing as few as 3 runs on a route in the day. I suppose that's progress?


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By PTZ
From Chicago/Colorado
May 23, 2012
Where? Wouldn't you like to know. You have to buy me a beer, then I will tell you.

I used to try to get a minimum of 500 feet any given day out. Project days were the exception. I felt like I got something done if I made at least 500 feet.
On boulders I used the V point system. If I could get 30 -50 V points I would be happy. I was only able to do a 100 point day once.


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By Dom
Administrator
From New Brunswick Canada
May 23, 2012
Moby dick 5.11-

7 to 9 sport; 4 to 6 trad


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
May 23, 2012
Tony Bubb enjoying the good "clipping holds" (hardy-har-har) while climbing 'Circumcision (6b)' at Nanyang Wall, in the Batu Caves area of K.L., Malaysia. Photo by Kenny Low, December 2006

If before or after work, 4-6 routes.
If over lunch 2-4 routes.
If for a whole day, and I was sport climbing... Oh wait, I don't spend days sport climbing, so I honestly don't know.
But if I go to Eldo for a day and my partner has the energy for it, I expect to get 10 pitches in. If he/she is low energy, or the weather is tough, then 6-7 pitches will do (IE: Sunday we did Redguard to the Diving Board, then it rained, so we quit climbing)


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
May 23, 2012
Colonel Mustard

I try to do the number that the day requires.

I also like the less is more approach.

I just did a three day weekend and got 4 pitches in. They were at a decent altitude with a steep approach, granted, but that's still pretty pathetic. But I got to lead all the pitches, so I figure I saved the obligatory "I gotta come back and lead the even/odd pitches" spiel. So, really, I climbed 6 pitches (the 4 pitches I led + 2 pitches I don't have to come back and lead because I led them). Plus, I onsighted the thing, so that's like two more pitches. 8 trad pitches in a day. Respectable!

So, by my calculations, I earned the two recovery days afterward. The math all checks out, don't worry ;).


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By bearbreeder
May 23, 2012

depends on the grade ...

if its moderate ... 10+ pitches

if its at yr limit ... much less


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By Charles Kinbote
From Brooklyn, NY
May 23, 2012
On Waimea, 5.10d

Depends. Casual cragging with lots of below-limit onsighting I get 8-12 pitches in a day depending on motivation, crowds, etc. Sometimes one hard onsight or repoint attempt totally trashes me and I only get on 3-4 different pitches all day. I've had bouldering days where I only get on 2 problems.


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By Eamon Doyle
From La Canada, CA
May 25, 2012
Headshot

Well, I usually find that I do 3-6 sport pitches for a day of not-killing-myself sport climbing. I'd say that's traditionally been a combo of me and my partners, and I often end up time limited rather than energy limited. If I was less worried about losing somebody else's gear, I'd go longer :P Bouldering in the gym for two or three hours, I probably will shoot for 1-2 moderate/hard problems, 6-7 easy/moderate problems, and spend a bunch of time working on one or two moves that I need to work out.

Eamon


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