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How do you organize your rack?

Original Post
Josh Schutz · · Estes Park and Telluride, Colo · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

How do you organize your rack on your sling when starting a climb. So far I've been putting big cams on the bottom. And then alpine draws on my harness. What is your efficiency?

JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

I almost never use a gear sling. It get's in my way, especially if there are big cams on it. I put all my cams on my harness, usually organizing them with large on one size and small on the other, big to small on each size with the nuts in the front. I try to put all my cams on the front gear loop so my alpine draws, nut tool, anchor equipment, prussiks, lockers, waterbottle, and anything else that I'm bringing is farther back and out of the way.

Rohan de Launey · · South Lake Tahoe · Joined May 2012 · Points: 15

I generally carry some doubles.. Small to .75 on front loop ea side. Bigger gear and nuts in the back. If I'm taking a really big cam I clip it to the haul loop where i also have cordellete for prussiking/bailing so it doesn't fuck with my movement..
Of course if its a rad finger crack I carry way more small gear and bump it all backwards.
Trad draws clipped to ea other at back of first loop ea side (behind .75) few extra slings around chest.
Also I split my nuts into fingers and smaller on a biner, large on another.
Just develop a method, key is to know where to grab when ur gripped and run out!

Seth Derr · · harrisburg, pa · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 2,260

I don't use gear slings. Left side front loop Aliens big to small followed by C4's big to small then set of nuts. Right side C3's big to small followed by C4's big to small (i carry doubles if i'm unfamiliar w/the route). Back loops right and left for slings. If it's a route i have to work and i know the gear beta i try to dial it down to what hand i need to place which piece, then rack accordingly.

Jack Daniels · · SANDY, UTAH · Joined May 2012 · Points: 40

I put my cordlette and atc with a few lockers and biners on my back left loop. Then I rack my cams starting with the smaller stuff on the front left loop then the bigger cams( .75-3) on the right front loop. Back right loop has some long runners with biners on the ends and some stoppers maybe a few qd's. don't forget some slings over your shoulder with a Biner on the end

Roger Harris · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,151

I have always used two gear slings; one on each shoulder. Originally it was pins on one gear-sling, biners & slings on the other. Now it's cams/nuts on the first sling, slings and quickdraws on the other. At the belay ledge, the second passes cleaned gear to the belayer or racks directly onto the gear slings, before trading the two gear slings for the cleaning sling and day pack. Swing leads on all pitches. I rack small to large, re-strung using the Black Diamond colored slings ("By God Please Grab the Right Cam" - Blue,Gray,Purple,Green,Red,Canary-yellow). Wireds and Lowe-Balls, sliders come before cams. Free-bees before quick draws, then to tripled long slings and then the cordelette/belay sling on a locking. Leader chooses which side the gear goes on based on the look of the next pitch (which direction the dihedral, crack offset or offwidth faces).

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

Assorted cams small in front, large in back on the front two gear loops, draws on the back two, nuts on right rear loop, belay device etc on the back left loop. If I'm swinging leads/have a partner that prefers a sling, then it's racked small to large cams, nuts in the back and draws on the harness loops. I'm not terribly picky though.

Mike McL · · South Lake Tahoe · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 2,030

alphabetically

John Keller · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2001 · Points: 5

Lots of options especially when swapping leads with somebody elses rack. I've found it helps to be comfortable with a couple different methods. For over a decade I, like most, had everything on slings over shoulders. I gradually migrated to all the draws on my harness and the pro over my shoulder then to everything distributed on my harness. I find pluses and minuses to both often based on what's being climbed. For example, climbing chimneys and off-widths it's often better to keep stuff off your harness. Also, since we often change which side of the body is 'in' the crack for off-widths, it can be really nice to swap gear from one shoulder to another.

Alec O · · Norwich, VT · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 31

Left front loop (front to back): Small nuts, black/blue/green aliens (small to big), .3 C4, .4 C4

Right front loop (front to back): Big nuts, .5 C4, .75 C4, 1 C4, 2 C4, 3 C4.

Mix of quickdraws and trad draws on the back loops. Belay device/locker in the back. Then I have one big pear shaped locker with a cord and/or 4 foot sling and 2 small, lightweight lockers attached to it for the anchor.

I used to alternate my cams to get "balance," but then I realized that if I pulled out the wrong size and needed the next smallest/biggest size instead, I'd rather be able to use the same hand to get to it rather than switch hands. If I'm carrying doubles (I rarely do b/c I climb at the Gunks so much), I rack them on the opposite side as the first set, and move some of the bigger ones to the front of the back loops.

I used to wear 4 footers over my shoulder, and still will if I know I need to extend a piece a long way (remember, I climb at the Gunks a lot!), but usually just have it twisted up and clipped to my anchor biner.

Callum Douglass · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2013 · Points: 233

This is the way I set up my gear for most normal single pitch trad climbs, keeping in mind I only have a roughly single set of C4's, .3-3 and like to place nuts and hexes.

Front right, .3-3 C4's, front to back
Front left, small nuts, large nuts, hexes, 2 60cm (24") alpine draws
Back left, 4 60cm alpine draws, 2 120cm alpine draws, set so they are the same length as the 60cm draws.
Back right, 2 60cm alpine draws, 1" webbing, cord, prusiks, ATC, lockers, tape

I like this setup because I can reach the correct gear with either hand unless I have one of my sides stuck against a wall or in a crack.

Sarugo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 45

"alphabetically"

hahaha

frankstoneline · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 30

Still no sports bra jokes? You guys are all serious business...

rogerbenton · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 210

no gear sling here either.

cams go on front loops, micro to .75 on left and second .75 to 3 on right. large to small front to back. big nuts behind big cams, small nuts behind small cams. rear loops each get 3 draws and 4 trad draws. atc, cord and lockers divvy'd up on back loops. two 4' slings over shoulder with a biner each.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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