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How do wildfires affect rock quality?



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By Mike Smyth
From Spartanburg, SC
Jun 29, 2012
Stick clips can be very handy in this area to keep it a little safer

With all of the recent wildfires kicking up around here, what kind of extra precaution/evaluation need to be considered when climbing? I figure sport routes with glue in bolts might be questionable, but what about quality of rock? Would the intense heat expand water in any cracks and blow rock out or what?


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By Tom Rangitsch
From Lander, WY
Jun 29, 2012
Finishing Rimfire, 13b, at the Sanctuary in Sinks

I think you are talking about spalling. The outer layer of the rock heats up in an intense fire much more than the underlying rock due to its poor conductivity of heat. You get sloughing of the rock. This happened during the Pass Creek fire in Lander (back in 04 or 05) to a dolomite crag called the Ghost Town. It basically ruined the cliff for sport climbing, as there are no longer any face holds. I don't know if granite or crack features are affected as much, though.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Jun 29, 2012

Granite can react the same way. Fires down San Diego way have done similar spalling in the past.


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By Mike Smyth
From Spartanburg, SC
Jun 29, 2012
Stick clips can be very handy in this area to keep it a little safer

Not sure what the exact terms are, but thanks. I would venture to guess that different rock is affected in different ways as well (i.e. limestone, granite, sandstone, etc.)


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By David Appelhans
From Lafayette
Jun 29, 2012
Imaginate

It seems that the Hayman fire kinda cleaned up the first few pitches on the domes in the South Platte (slab).


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By cassondra
From las vegas, NV
Jul 2, 2012

www.mountainproject.com/v/elephant-knob/105844887
this will give you an idea about how a wild fire can affect granite


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By bob branscomb
From Lander, WY
Jul 2, 2012

We had a fire this last winter in the Sinks that burned through a large part of the dolomite boulders below the Main Wall. This Spring I bouldered there and there was a lot of chips and flakes that had popped off along the base and I pulled several off that weren't obviously loose on the problems.

In softer stone like limestone/dolomite, I would think there is a lot more gas trapped in pockets in the stone than in a denser stone like granite and the radical gas expansion caused by the fire really blew a lot of stuff off immediately and left a fair amount of weakly adhered flakes.

Just have to be cautious and test the holds in such a case.


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By Mike Smyth
From Spartanburg, SC
Jul 2, 2012
Stick clips can be very handy in this area to keep it a little safer

Thanks for the info. Wondering what eleven mile is going to like like. From what I've heard, messenger wall and turret dome may have sustained some damage. Won't know for sure until I can make a trip to the area. Wildfires here in Colorado are really screwing with my climbing season


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By Woodchuck ATC
Jul 2, 2012
bouldering at RRG

bob branscomb wrote:
We had a fire this last winter in the Sinks that burned through a large part of the dolomite boulders below the Main Wall. This Spring I bouldered there and there was a lot of chips and flakes that had popped off along the base and I pulled several off that weren't obviously loose on the problems. In softer stone like limestone/dolomite, I would think there is a lot more gas trapped in pockets in the stone than in a denser stone like granite and the radical gas expansion caused by the fire really blew a lot of stuff off immediately and left a fair amount of weakly adhered flakes. Just have to be cautious and test the holds in such a case.



Agree that the limestone and dolomites would be affected much more. Don't think extreme heat would do much to meta rock like quartzite though. Judging on having seen chunks of quartzite tossed in campfires where it hasn't cracked or anything. Think crushed quartzite has been used in past to make refractory quality bricks for furnaces at steel mills.


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By David Lee
Jul 2, 2012
Cave belay station anchor. Pretty sweet.

Falling rock is the biggest concern I've had climbing the burned sandstone in Santa Barbara, CA after the Tea, Jesusita and Gap fires. Fire pretty much turns solid routes into choss piles but give it time to return to 'normal'.

Pokemon taught me that fire is not effective against rock, but I don't believe it IRL.


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By mountainmicah83
From Colorado Springs
Jul 3, 2012
Kit Carson

Mike Smyth wrote:
Thanks for the info. Wondering what eleven mile is going to like like. From what I've heard, messenger wall and turret dome may have sustained some damage. Won't know for sure until I can make a trip to the area. Wildfires here in Colorado are really screwing with my climbing season


We would like to see some photos if you make it up to that area.


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By Killing In The Name Of
Jul 4, 2012
I'll take "things I'd give my left arm to bang" for $400, Alex

Elephant Knob post says it. That place looked cool from a distance, turned out to be WORTHLESS. Don't trust burned gear, metal is tempered for a reason, when it loses its temper, it's garbage thenceforth.


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By bergbryce
From South Lake Tahoe, CA
Jul 4, 2012

Fires can open up a lot of climbing too by removing a ton of brush.
Sugarloaf, Phantom Spires and Woodfords Canyon, all near SLT were all affected in somewhat of a positive way by a fire because the crags were suddenly a lot more accessible.


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