How comfortable are you at your max solo grade?
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Say you are soloing a 70 meter (230ft) multi pitch climb, how comfortable are you? would you be willing to rest on a ledge and take in the exposure? Would you try to stay in your solo headspace the entire time? I ask because i'm interested to see how many people are truly comfortable while soloing, i'm most interested in when people are at their maximum grade they would be willing to solo a 70m climb but i would also be interested in how comfortable you might be at say 5.2 or 5.4. |
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Is high school out already? |
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Noone I know of would solo at their max climbing ability... probably because they would have died by now. Most people who solo things anywhere near their ability run the route dozens of times until they have every move by heart. |
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I solo at 5.nope, so pretty comfy I'd say. |
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ViperScale wrote:Noone I know of would solo at their max climbing ability... probably because they would have died by now. Most people who solo things anywhere near their ability run the route dozens of times until they have every move by heart.Max solo grade, my max grade might be 5.12 though max solo grade i would be willing to climb is 5.10b. |
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that guy named seb wrote: Max solo grade, my max grade might be 5.12 though max solo grade i would be willing to climb is 5.10b.You sure about that? That youtube video of you from just 2-3 months ago showed you chuffing your way up a 5.7 and getting absolutely terrified and being a general shitshow. I would suggest you not even lead 10b on gear much less attempt to solo it. You're actually going to die. |
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Jon H wrote: You sure about that? That youtube video of you from just 2-3 months ago showed you chuffing your way up a 5.7 and getting absolutely terrified and being a general shitshow. I would suggest you not even lead 10b on gear much less attempt to solo it. You're actually going to die.He means in the gym. |
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Rather than attack you, I'll answer. |
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Jon H wrote: You sure about that? That youtube video of you from just 2-3 months ago showed you chuffing your way up a 5.7 and getting absolutely terrified and being a general shitshow. I would suggest you not even lead 10b on gear much less attempt to solo it. You're actually going to die.not exactly sure which climb you're talking about, especially since i haven't been able to do any major trad (and filmed it) in about 10 months. I filmed this on my new rip off go pro and sped it up a shit ton, the route is called sunshine it's 5.7 and it was my belayers first time ever belaying, i climbed it in flip flops. ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.ph… youtube.com/watch?v=s-Lsy9X… don't pay attention to the audio, when editing i disregarded it as i was only seeing the effect of sped up footage with POV. I have also solo'd 5.6 in approach shoes ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.ph… youtube.com/watch?v=U-dC88F… |
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Dominic Weinstock wrote:I'm of the volition that "max solo grade" is by definition a grade at which one feels comfortable climbing without a rope..........which isn't a definitive term like say a 1 rep max in weight lifting.......that aside, I'd wager very few people solo...and even fewer people solo anywhere near there physical limit or outside their comfort zone for that matter...This is why i gave the theoretical climb a height of 70 meters, i have seen someone (cant remember who) solo 9a but he only would have broken his legs, it was more like a (very) high highball boulder problem, put the same man 50 meters up a face with certain death if he fell i guarantee you he wouldn't be so brave as to climb 9a, 7a maybe but even then how comfortable would he be with his surroundings, what would he be so comfortable and confident as to look around and take in the view? I don't know, and that's the scenario that i'm interested in. |
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highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion wrote:...Same story when I solo'd the Casual Route ,ha ha, you should tell them about the next time you went up and did the cas on a rope. one of my favorite stories! |
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that guy named seb wrote: not exactly sure which climb you're talking aboutOh cmon Seb, just because you switched all your vids to unlisted doesn't mean no one remembers. |
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Nathanael wrote: Oh cmon Seb, just because you switched all your vids to unlisted doesn't mean no one remembers.My excuse is one of a few things, it was really dark and i was going to die if my partner fell, i didn't have a clue how to crack climb, or it's vandal and Ann which is a really fucking annoying route and still gives me trouble to this day. ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.ph… CUNT OF A CLIMB!! |
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slabby 5.7 in the rain is much afraid |
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All climbers need to know their solo limit.... |
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Guy Keesee wrote:All climbers need to know their solo limit.... To me it totally depends on the type of climbing, give me solid hand jams and its one thing.... smooth slab another. Also just where the crux of this solo is located - 15 feet off the deck,leading to a bomber crack... yea I FS 5.10.lets say the crux is 50 meters up on a 70 meter climb, you will die if you fall, the style of climbing doesn't matter, you can make the climb a crack climb if you want, you can be pulling on limestone pockets, or climbing a granite slab, it doesn't matter, what matters is how you would feel. |
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that guy named seb wrote: lets say the crux is 50 meters up on a 70 meter climb, you will die if you fall, the style of climbing doesn't matter, you can make the climb a crack climb if you want, you can be pulling on limestone pockets, or climbing a granite slab, it doesn't matter, what matters is how you would feel.IDK, what's the grade of the climb? 5.hard? 5.sandbagged? A5? A6? A99? |
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I'm pretty sure the only people who truly know their "max" soloing grade are dead. |
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First rule of soloing. Do your best not to talk about soloing. |
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Rob Gordon wrote:First rule of soloing. Do your best not to talk about soloing.bro, I free solo'd some A7 on pink point, it was heinous. |
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slim wrote: ha ha, you should tell them about the next time you went up and did the cas on a rope. one of my favorite stories!And fell, with no pro in, and my rope snagged a horn of rock making the fall rather short and mellow. If it wasn't for that, I'd probably have a permanent limp. |