|Milky Way Wall
The first couple moves on small, sharp crimps are the crux. Once you pull past the second bolt, it's 5.8/5.9 or easier to the top.
If you don't know where the holds are at the start, this route feels much harder than 5.11a. Find the right beta, though, and it's easy .11.
This route's middle section has a few feet with probably the worst rock on the wall (but really, it's not TOO bad). Luckily the holds there are huge. The line is still a bit dirty but should clean up nicely.
This route is right of Milky Way, left of Space Invaders, and starts just left of the small pine tree.
6 bolts to ring anchors.
|By Tristan Higbee|
Aug 16, 2008
This is the last route we redpointed on this section of the wall. Earlier on we were trying a sequence that was hard .11 or easy .12. Then we went up there again, found better beta, and the climb turned out to be a lot easier. This route is significantly less sustained than Dark Matter (5.11b) or even Space Invaders (5.11a). If you can figure out the good beta, I think it may be the easiest 5.11 at The Galaxy.
This route does get some dirt and pine needles on it after a good rain (that's what happens when routes go up water streaks, eh?). When clean, I think this route could be three stars.
As for the name... There were two sources of inspiration: 1) The start climbs like a boulder problem, and 2) When I was bolting and cleaning this route, I knocked some loose rocks onto some cans of compressed air (used for cleaning the routes) at the bottom. The kind of exploded, just like the oxygen tanks on Apollo 13...
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Aug 17, 2008
A good line for someone looking to send their first .11 as the crux hits quick and is over quick.
Funny enough, this was the 2nd route bolted on the wall. We tried it once and it felt really tough. We had so many other good lines waiting for us that we got distracted and didn't get back to this one until much later.
This time we noticed the right sequence pretty quick. It went so quickly that I felt a bit stupid for not seeing it before.
Yes, it has some dirt in the middle section, but Tristan (yes-the world famous Tristan) and I are planning a cleaning day real soon. More ascents will help the dirt.