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House of the Rising Sun
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House of the Rising Sun S 

House of the Rising Sun 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Team Hatun Machay 2011
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 339
Submitted By: David Trippett on Aug 2, 2011

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Working out the beta for the FA of House of the Ri...

Description 

Fun and technical arete climbing on excellent, and at times sharp rock.

Starts off a small pedestal and ascends the overhanging side of the Arete to a high first bolt. Get a spot until you get the first clip.

Continue up the left face of the arete using face holds and pinches on the arete. After the second bolt, transfer directly onto the arete and continue up to the chains, fighting the building pump as the angle steepens and the holds shrink.

very techy...I wish it were twice as long, but still one of the coolest lines I did at Hatun.

Location 

Near the corral. An easy walk from the refuge.

Climb in the morning sun, there is usually quite a chill in the afternoon shade.

Protection 

3 Bolts


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By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Aug 2, 2011

Would like to hear from anyone who has tried this about their thoughts on the grade. We felt it was a hard on-sight, but would get easier as the beta was worked out. Most of us on the FA thought ~12b, no harder.