House of the 7th Bobcat
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Pitches 1 & 2, from the base
(1) Start on a short handcrack up a trailside block, then continue up moderate ground to a bolt and a final short splitter. Belay at a comfortable ledge with a chain anchor. 5.9.
(2) Bouldery tips laybacking (crux) past 2 closely spaced bolts leads to a rest pod. 5.10 crack climbing leads to chain anchor. 5.11+ or maybe 5.12-.
Take care not to soak your rope on the descent, which tends to steer you down the soggy Lookout Direct starting slab just L of the route. It is also possible to rap or top-rope the entire route with a single 70m rope.
About halfway between Bobcat Cringe and Steel Pulse. Starts right off the trail.
Single 60m rope, light rack to 3", mostly in the 1/2" to 1" range. Chain anchors on both pitches.
BETA PHOTO: The short starting handcrack
Pitch 2, on a sunny December day.
BETA PHOTO: Carolyn Marquardt at the crux (11d) thin layback s...
BETA PHOTO: Michal Rynkiewicz shooting for the good finger jam...
Michal moving into the flaring thin hands section ...
|Comments on House of the 7th Bobcat
|By Jon Nelson|
Apr 16, 2012
The crux on the first pitch is next to the bolt. It involves palming a left-leaning edge that has a good jug on top. The bottom hand-to-fist crack can be avoided by laybacking up the right edge of the flake, though it has no protection.
The crux on the second pitch is getting past the second bolt. Really thin undercling-layback cranking for a few moves to a nice fingerlock just below a hand pod.
Apr 24, 2012
Link both pitches in one for full value, great climb with a sequential crux. Really loved the off fingers section! Hike up and do this climb!!! Soooooo good...