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House of the 7th Bobcat 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Hirst, Derek Pearson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,002
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Mar 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Michal moving into the flaring thin hands section ...

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closure on the Diamond MORE INFO >>>


(1) Start on a short handcrack up a trailside block, then continue up moderate ground to a bolt and a final short splitter. Belay at a comfortable ledge with a chain anchor. 5.9.
(2) Bouldery tips laybacking (crux) past 2 closely spaced bolts leads to a rest pod. 5.10 crack climbing leads to chain anchor. 5.11+ or maybe 5.12-.

Take care not to soak your rope on the descent, which tends to steer you down the soggy Lookout Direct starting slab just L of the route. It is also possible to rap or top-rope the entire route with a single 70m rope.


About halfway between Bobcat Cringe and Steel Pulse. Starts right off the trail.


Single 60m rope, light rack to 3", mostly in the 1/2" to 1" range. Chain anchors on both pitches.

Photos of House of the 7th Bobcat Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Michal Rynkiewicz shooting for the good finger jam...
Michal Rynkiewicz shooting for the good finger jam...
Rock Climbing Photo: The short starting handcrack
BETA PHOTO: The short starting handcrack
Rock Climbing Photo: Carolyn Marquardt at the crux (11d) thin layback s...
BETA PHOTO: Carolyn Marquardt at the crux (11d) thin layback s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2, on a sunny December day.
Pitch 2, on a sunny December day.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitches 1 & 2, from the base
Pitches 1 & 2, from the base

Comments on House of the 7th Bobcat Add Comment
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By Jon Nelson
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The crux on the first pitch is next to the bolt. It involves palming a left-leaning edge that has a good jug on top. The bottom hand-to-fist crack can be avoided by laybacking up the right edge of the flake, though it has no protection.

The crux on the second pitch is getting past the second bolt. Really thin undercling-layback cranking for a few moves to a nice fingerlock just below a hand pod.
By michal
From: Everett WA
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Link both pitches in one for full value, great climb with a sequential crux. Really loved the off fingers section! Hike up and do this climb!!! Soooooo good...
By Eric Hirst
Sep 29, 2014

11d may be a "sandbag by consensus" rating; not sure. I've tried doing the crux again on TR a couple times now since I first led it, with zero success. The crux is only about 5' of climbing, but the sequence is very specific and feels much harder than any single move on Stern Farmer or (according to Jon) Bobcat Cringe.

It's maybe V4 or V5 or V6 or V7 or or 5.11b or 5.13a or something -- I don't really have a clue anymore. At least the bolts are there to hang on while you work out the beta.
By Jon Nelson
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The crack above the crux is really nice thin hands and fingers. If you can't do the crux, aid past it and enjoy the rest. And as Eric said, it is pretty stiff, even for an Index 11d. Definitely harder than Solitude, and some call that a 12.
By Drewsky
Mar 12, 2015

The crux on this is a lizard slap to the face. It probably would be V4 or V5 if it were found amongst the pebbles. V5 = Index 5.11a. However, this route gets a grading score enhancement for the contrast between the first section and the crux, so .11+ it is. I thought it was fun.

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