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House of the 7th Bobcat 

5.11d

   
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Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 110 feet
Consensus: 5.11d [details]
FA: Eric Hirst, Derek Pearson
New Route: Yes
Submitted By: Eric Hirst on Mar 26, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Pitches 1 & 2, from the base

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Description 

(1) Start on a short handcrack up a trailside block, then continue up moderate ground to a bolt and a final short splitter. Belay at a comfortable ledge with a chain anchor. 5.9.
(2) Bouldery tips laybacking (crux) past 2 closely spaced bolts leads to a rest pod. 5.10 crack climbing leads to chain anchor. 5.11+ or maybe 5.12-.

Take care not to soak your rope on the descent, which tends to steer you down the soggy Lookout Direct starting slab just L of the route. It is also possible to rap or top-rope the entire route with a single 70m rope.


Location 

About halfway between Bobcat Cringe and Steel Pulse. Starts right off the trail.


Protection 

Single 60m rope, light rack to 3", mostly in the 1/2" to 1" range. Chain anchors on both pitches.



Photos of House of the 7th Bobcat Slideshow Add Photo
The short starting handcrack

BETA PHOTO: The short starting handcrack

Pitch 2, on a sunny December day.

Pitch 2, on a sunny December day.

Carolyn Marquardt at the crux (11d) thin layback section of House of the 7th bobcat.

BETA PHOTO: Carolyn Marquardt at the crux (11d) thin layback s...

Michal Rynkiewicz shooting for the good finger jam after the crux on House of the 7th Bobcat.

BETA PHOTO: Michal Rynkiewicz shooting for the good finger jam...

Michal moving into the flaring thin hands section after the crux (House of the 7th Bobcat).

Michal moving into the flaring thin hands section ...


Comments on House of the 7th Bobcat Add Comment
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By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Apr 16, 2012
rating: 5.11d

The crux on the first pitch is next to the bolt. It involves palming a left-leaning edge that has a good jug on top. The bottom hand-to-fist crack can be avoided by laybacking up the right edge of the flake, though it has no protection.

The crux on the second pitch is getting past the second bolt. Really thin undercling-layback cranking for a few moves to a nice fingerlock just below a hand pod.

By michal
Apr 24, 2012
rating: 5.11d

Link both pitches in one for full value, great climb with a sequential crux. Really loved the off fingers section! Hike up and do this climb!!! Soooooo good...