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(2) Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
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Grab n' Go S 
Helm's Deep S 
House of Pain S 
Redhorn Gate T 
Why Must I Cry S 

House of Pain 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Jon Stewart, Kevin Evansen, Maggie Evansen
Page Views: 1,156
Submitted By: Toby Butterfield on Sep 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (30)
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Description 

Fairly easy climbing up to the crux: some bouldery moves to get around the roof. Mind your clipping stances as you do this--you really don't want to have to clip midway through the crux if you can avoid it.

Above the roof is a good rest followed by some much easier climbing to the anchors.

Location 

To the left of Helm's Deep, this is the middle set of bolts in the Middle-earth area. Look for the distinctive roof at the second bolt, roughly 15 feet off the deck.

Protection 

Bolts.


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By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Apr 7, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Cool route, really sharp flakes. On the traverse in from the left, be careful of what you grab... there are several loose chunks that could really hurt someone. This route is exactly 50 feet long. 5 bolts.
By redlude97
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Good route, as noted some loose blocks below the roof could pull out. The choice of Met Rap Hangers for the anchor was a pretty poor choice and makes its a pain to clean on rappel because of the traverse and roof section. Ended up cleaning the last 2 bolts once back the ground by climbing back up to grab them. Considering the other anchors on nearby routes, the lack of chains or quicklinks seems odd
By Micah Klesick
Administrator
From: Vancouver, WA
Sep 29, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I'll take a look at the loose blocks next time I'm out there and see if they need trundling. As far as the anchor, I'm planning to add rap rings to it soon. However, that actually won't help in back cleaning the route. Due to the anchor being on the opposite side of the arÍte, coupled with the roof, its just not a good position to back clean and will always be hard to do.
By redlude97
Sep 30, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Thanks for doing that Micah, the blocks are loose but pretty secure. Prying them out may affect the integrity of the other holds. Agreed it will never be an easy route to clean but at least with rings or quicklinks you can tram in to get at the bolts of the roof and then go in direct to clean the last two.