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Black Flies Consume Jim Dunn T,S 
Blurry Eyes T 
Bull Run T 
Fireside Crack T 
Gift, The T 
Ginsu Flake T 
Green Party T 
Green Thumb T 
Greenpeace T 
Hippy Bus T,S 
House Made of Dawn S 
I'm Still Here T 
Moldy Bolts T,S 
Remember Me T 
Stewart's Crack T 

House Made of Dawn 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: David Powers, Mark Sprague April 29, 2012
Page Views: 357
Submitted By: M Sprague on May 1, 2012

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Description 

The first slab approach pitch of a harder multi-pitch project is a quality climb by itself. Between Black Flies .. and Green Party (see the cliff topo mountainproject.com/v/10862346... ) , step up to the start of a short left leaning flake, then step right and roughly follow the bolts up the quality slab to an anchor at a good stance below the big second pitch flake system. Be prepared to zig and zag some from the bolts for the easiest line. There is a thin crux about 1/3 of the way up that may seem desperate if your shoes are warm. It felt 11a when we climbed it in ideal conditions, but I remember it feeling much more insecure while bolting it in the Fall, so we are calling it 11b and await confirmation. Some of the footholds are micro, so temps will make all the difference. Dave on-sited the FA. a realy nice pitch if you like slab, and then the second pitch rears up and gets even better! Don't let the couple clumps of vegetation you weave by at the beginning put you off. The climbing is excellent.

Location 

Head left from the regular approach trail, past the Great Arch, until you get to the cairn indicating the trails to the left side and the Alcove. The bolts are above you, leading up the slab, with a second pitch steep flake system above.

You can lower or rap with a single 60m rope

Protection 

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


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