House Made of Dawn
Your todo list:
Your rating: -none-
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE: [0 people like this page.]
The first slab approach pitch of a harder multi-pitch project is a quality climb by itself. Between Black Flies .. and Green Party (see the cliff topo mountainproject.com/v/10862346...
) , step up to the start of a short left leaning flake, then step right and roughly follow the bolts up the quality slab to an anchor at a good stance below the big second pitch flake system. Be prepared to zig and zag some from the bolts for the easiest line. There is a thin crux about 1/3 of the way up that may seem desperate if your shoes are warm. It felt 11a when we climbed it in ideal conditions, but I remember it feeling much more insecure while bolting it in the Fall, so we are calling it 11b and await confirmation. Some of the footholds are micro, so temps will make all the difference. Dave on-sited the FA. a realy nice pitch if you like slab, and then the second pitch rears up and gets even better! Don't let the couple clumps of vegetation you weave by at the beginning put you off. The climbing is excellent.
Head left from the regular approach trail, past the Great Arch, until you get to the cairn indicating the trails to the left side and the Alcove. The bolts are above you, leading up the slab, with a second pitch steep flake system above.
You can lower or rap with a single 60m rope
10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.