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Hourglass 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type: Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed (1989)
Page Views: 343
Submitted By: ---- on Nov 30, 2011
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Description 

This route may be your best bet if you're looking for an entry level 5.12 at the Cirque. If nothing else it will allow you to sample some of the smooth marble stone that the Cirque is known for.

The difficulties are met immediately as you pull off the ground. The opening moves are quite bouldery so it would make sense to pre clip the first or second bolt. After digesting the start, pleasant 5.10 climbing takes you through an assortment of downward pulling jugs and sidepulls.

The second crux involves making a rightward traverse on an undercling flake. The footholds seem to be too high for any level of comfort to be achieved. This section is awkward and scrunchy and sure to put you in a bad mood if this is your first experience at the Cirque.

The funnest moves are found after clipping the last bolt. For full credit move straight up the face on some micro sidepulls, making sure to move your feet up nice and high. Make one last desperate reach (or jump) for a nice ledge. Mantle the ledge and clip the anchor. This final exciting crux can be avoided by climbing a little right of the bolt line.

This route is on the left side of the cirque and gets wet due to the fact that it is near vertical.


Location 

The first notable line on the left side of the cirque. The bottom of the cliff is undercut and a pile of cheater stones is present.


Protection 

7 bolts + anchor



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