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 ADVANCED
Pedestal Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All The Way 
Angle of the Dangle 
Assume the Position 
Beginning, The 
Birch Tree Crack 
Blow-up 
Chimney's End 
Condolences 
Congratulations 
Creation Crack 
D.L.F.A 
Dog, The 
Dyslexia 
End Of The End, The 
End, The 
Evelyn Bites The Crust 
F4 Ledges 
Flake Route 
Golden Ledges 
Hourglass 
Hourglass Direct 
Ironmongers 
Ironmongers Super Direct 
Lethe 
Lower Diagonal 
Modern Art 
Pedestal, The 
Pete's Lament 
Pine Box 
Rich and Famous 
Sometime Crack 
Sometime Direct 
Sometimes Left Side 
Sometimes Right 
Stretcher, The 
Sweatshop 
Upper Diagonal 
Welfare Line 
Unsorted Routes:

Hourglass 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ralph Schmidt
Season: All
Page Views: 250
Submitted By: Andy Hansen on Jun 30, 2011
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Description 

Hourglass begins by climbing into the crux of Birch Tree crack and when you've finally reached a decent hold on Birch Tree, cut left onto the face a few feet using crimps. Deadpoints on marginal crimps bring you to a decent rest ledge. From here fire straight up on super dooper thin crimps and make another long deadpoint to a decent hold and continue on good ledges to the top. A thriller of a route and if this gets ya goin... try the Hourglass Direct. I think they call it Hourglass because the pump timer is ticking...


Location 

Slightly left of Birch Tree Crack.


Protection 

Small nuts, cams on Birch Tree, one decent C3 in a horizontal on route. Run it to the top.



Comments on Hourglass Add Comment
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By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jul 1, 2011

i beleive the first lead of this was by Ralph Schimdt early 1980's Think he just trailed the rope fer some reason.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 2, 2011

Thanks Steve. Updated the info. It looks like you might actually be able to squeeze a TCU in a horizontal just left of Birch Tree and then nothin' till the top out. Definitely R rated unless you plug gear into Birch Tree...

By Tradoholic
Jul 3, 2011

No gear in Birch Tree, that's off route!

By Paul Campbell
From: Sussex, WI
Jul 3, 2011

In-reach rule Rhoads!

By Tradoholic
Jul 4, 2011

If you can't use it for your hands why would you be able to use it for gear? I broke this rule only once, but I was really run out, the gear off route was so good, the moves above it were sandy slopers and my wife was belaying. If Hourglass has already been led with gear in BT then the new gen needs to take it to the next level.

KILL, KILL, KILL!

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 4, 2011

Considering that the route starts in Birch Tree it wouldn't be inappropriate to place gear in that route. Once you move right out of BT and pull the 1st crux there is a horizontal for a red C3- after that there is no pro. I didn't lead this but it's on my radar and I won't use BT for gear after the C3.

By Tradoholic
Jul 4, 2011

That sounds fair to me Andy. Any pro on the direct start?

"This isn't Nam, there are rules"

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 4, 2011

No pro on the direct, unfortunately!