Hound Dog 5.11a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.11a [details] |
| FA: | Chip Ruckgraber & Dave Fixx |
| Submitted By: | Steve Levin on Jul 10, 2001 |
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Description On the left side of Bell Buttress, at a tree flush against the wall, is this excellent, well-protected route. The climbing is good from bottom to top, with good crimpy edges and a reachy crux somewhere by the 8th bolt. The bolted line which extends up and left from the 8th bolt is "Freak on a Leash" (5.12d, F.A. Steve Sangdahl & Chip Rockgrabber), an exercise in devious, hard-to-figure-out moves. By the way, Hound Dog has been led using gear and clipping only two of the bolts (an exercise in deviousness of a different nature!).
Protection 9 draws and something for the anchor.
Looking up the route....
| Tom Jensen heading to the crux on Hound Dog, BC Be...
| Nice face climbing.
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By Scott Hudson Jul 27, 2001
| One of the best bolted lines in Boulder Canyon of this grade. The climbing is sustained and the crux well protected. The finishing moves are now protected by a bolt and a cam is no longer needed for the 5.9 exit moves. |
By Michael Komarnitsky Founding Father From: Seattle, WA Aug 12, 2001
| I have to concur on this one; steep and relatively sustained, but well protected. Just don't blow the second clip or you'll have the tree stump anal probe experience. |
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 22, 2002 rating: 5.10
| Awfully easy for 11a. Seems like a good first 5.11 for people. |
By Michael Komarnitsky Founding Father From: Seattle, WA Jul 17, 2002
| All comments relevant to the trad/bolted/headpointing/ethics discussion has been moved to the features section of the site (should show up tommorrow). Geez, I leave for a week and all hell breaks loose. :-) |
By Anonymous Coward Jul 11, 2003
| Great climb, but if you are 5'2" or under, it is a very powerful reachy crux on sh*ty holds. |
By patrick kadel Jul 18, 2006 rating: 5.11a
| At 5'7", the crux moves felt hard to me, but I think if you are 5'10" or taller, you avoid the difficulties. Maybe for the taller, the crux is located elsewhere as the hold 6" above my crux is very positive. So I'll chime in with 10+/11- and if you can reach 6" more than me I'll guess sustained 10-??? Overall, a nice climb to do while visiting Bell Buttress. |
By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton May 19, 2009
| The crux is certainly height dependent. My 6' partner cruised it, I found it about right at 11a and I'm 5'8". Our third party member, at 5'2" could not get the crux move clean. |
By brain damage Jun 11, 2011 rating: 5.11a/b
| I had a hell of a time with the crux being 5'5". I moved left to some decent/crimpy side pulls and was able to barely pull the crux that way. I tried going straight up and was about 5" too short. This move is very height dependent. I give it 11a/b. |
By Matt Toensing From: Boulder Sep 15, 2011 rating: 5.11-
| They should have named this route something to do with the fact that if you fall at the start, you are going to be violated mercilessly by the tree. It would be a very unpleasant experience, but the climbing is pretty easy at the start. |
By Jeff Nehls Jun 20, 2012
| Great route. Pleasantly large holds for clipping. Mostly 5.10 moves with a few 5.11 cruxes. |
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