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Ed and Terry Wall
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Blind Date 
Call it a Knight 
Captured For Rapture 
DJW Memorial 
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Edge of the World 
First Kiss 
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I'm Not Lichen This 
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Main Crack 
Neosymian Thugs 
No Way In Hell 
North Chimney 
North Crack 
Real McCoy 
Roaches on a Face 
Vote for Your Mom 
Y Crack, The 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Knight
Page Views: 330
Submitted By: Christian "crisco" Burrell on Mar 12, 2009
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A more trad variation to Roaches on a Face. Darren K. led me up this some time ago, telling me that it had been done years ago but somebody and he needed to check the gear for his guide book.
Begin on the same bolted face as Roaches. When you reach the downward pointing flake/overlap, head left using a small crack for gear. If memory serves me right DK used small TCU's and even a brass nut. The roof was a quick a grunt and the upper face is mostly mellow. You have to be a bit creative with your gear on the upper face, but it didn't merit a PG rating.
One more variation to do on this beautiful wall.


mostly small nuts and cams. Be prepared for less than perfect placements here and there, but nothing scary.

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By Darren Knezek
May 10, 2009

Called Hotwired.
FA= Jim Knight