|Type:||Sport, 3 pitches, 250'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||1Eric Rhicard on Jul 9, 2006|
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From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 8, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
This line, while enjoyable and moderate, may not be for a leader breaking into the grade. There are up to 30ft run-outs on moderate terrain. Some of these could probably be lessened with nuts and slings.
A more moderate alternative would be Fisherman's Elbow on the Fortress.
I believe the crux may be avoided by skirting in from the left and starting from the second bolt.
By Sean Campbell
Aug 15, 2012
Just did this route yesterday. Very fun!
2 single 60m rope raps will get you down the route (tie knots in the end for the first rap... it's very close to the end).
For the second pitch, clip 3 bolts, continue up to the big ledge, and walk left to see the anchors. Belay off this ledge and then climb up and left to the previously mentioned anchors.
By Joao Bras-Jorge
Nov 7, 2015
Moderate route indeed but steep when going through the bulges (first bulge before hanging belay on first pitch, second bulge when starting second pitch and third bulge right before the top of third pitch, this last one is the steepest).
Holds and bolts are there but be ready to pull some at the bulges. Crux move is definitely at the bottom. Be careful on that 5.8+ move as you will definitely deck if seconding with rope slack and stretch.
The rest of the climbing is mostly 5.6 with 5.7/5.8 moves at the bulges.
All belay stations are bolted and have rings.
Our fearless leader went directly to the bolted belay at the top of the 2nd pitch by-passing the tie off rock thing.
Rope drag wasn't an issue.
The access gully to the climb is tough. Many burnt trees are down and the last big rains finished to create a bushwack approach.
We climbed and rappelled with double ropes (party of 3)
First Rappel to the bolted belay for the third pitch and second rappel to the base of the obvious huge chimney/split to the left of the anchor. Then we bushwacked back down to the start of the climb.
Beautiful setting and very remote considering we had to hike from the parking at the lifts (road closed for ice). South exposure makes this climb a very good choice for November.