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Hotshot 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: EFR,JSt, '01
Page Views: 2,031
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jul 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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  • Closed to climbing, March 15 - June 30 MORE INFO >>>
  • Closed to climbing, March 15-June 30 MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    This three pitch climb is fun and well protected when necessary. It's a little tricky at the end of the second pitch as you have to move the belay up and left of the chimney. This means you have to tie off a big rock on the big ledge at the top of the second pitch then third or 4th class up and left to the anchors. You could climb to that point and belay your partner up the second pitch from there but the rope drag might be bad.

    Location 

    The route starts at the base of the chimneys that are the western access to the ledge where Luke Slingwalker and If You Bolt It...start. The crux is the first 15 feet. P1) Climb short face to the arete that leads to the bulge at the same level as the start of Luke.... then up to anchors and semi-hanging belay. P2) Continue up to the big ledge. Move belay up and left of chimney to anchors. P3) Climb up arete to just below the summit. Easy third class to summit. There may be a register somewhere up there. The single 60M rope rappel from the top anchors just gets you to the next set of anchors so have a sling ready and tie a knot in the end of the ropes. A second rap drops you into a big chimney up hill from where you started. This is not a bad place to leave your gear if you are not doing another climb.

    Protection 

    Bolts

    Description 

    This three pitch climb is fun and well protected when necessary. It's a little tricky at the end of the second pitch as you have to move the belay up and left of the chimney. This means you have to tie off a big rock on the big ledge at the top of the second pitch then third or 4th class up and left to the anchors. You could climb to that point and belay your partner up the second pitch from there but the rope drag might be bad.

    Location 

    The route starts at the base of the chimneys that are the western access to the ledge where Luke Slingwalker and If You Bolt It...start. The crux is the first 15 feet. P1) Climb short face to the arete that leads to the bulge at the same level as the start of Luke.... then up to anchors and semi-hanging belay. P2) Continue up to the big ledge. Move belay up and left of chimney to anchors. P3) Climb up arete to just below the summit. Easy third class to summit. There may be a register somewhere up there. The single 60M rope rappel from the top anchors just gets you to the next set of anchors so have a sling ready and tie a knot in the end of the ropes. A second rap drops you into a big chimney up hill from where you started. This is not a bad place to leave your gear if you are not doing another climb.

    Protection 

    Bolts


    Comments on Hotshot Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Hendrixson
    Administrator
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Jul 8, 2012
    rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

    This line, while enjoyable and moderate, may not be for a leader breaking into the grade. There are up to 30ft run-outs on moderate terrain. Some of these could probably be lessened with nuts and slings.

    A more moderate alternative would be Fisherman's Elbow on the Fortress.

    I believe the crux may be avoided by skirting in from the left and starting from the second bolt.
    By Sean Campbell
    Aug 15, 2012

    Just did this route yesterday. Very fun!
    Notes:
    2 single 60m rope raps will get you down the route (tie knots in the end for the first rap... it's very close to the end).
    For the second pitch, clip 3 bolts, continue up to the big ledge, and walk left to see the anchors. Belay off this ledge and then climb up and left to the previously mentioned anchors.
    By Joao Bras-Jorge
    Nov 7, 2015

    Moderate route indeed but steep when going through the bulges (first bulge before hanging belay on first pitch, second bulge when starting second pitch and third bulge right before the top of third pitch, this last one is the steepest).
    Holds and bolts are there but be ready to pull some at the bulges. Crux move is definitely at the bottom. Be careful on that 5.8+ move as you will definitely deck if seconding with rope slack and stretch.
    The rest of the climbing is mostly 5.6 with 5.7/5.8 moves at the bulges.
    All belay stations are bolted and have rings.
    Our fearless leader went directly to the bolted belay at the top of the 2nd pitch by-passing the tie off rock thing.
    Rope drag wasn't an issue.

    The access gully to the climb is tough. Many burnt trees are down and the last big rains finished to create a bushwack approach.

    We climbed and rappelled with double ropes (party of 3)
    First Rappel to the bolted belay for the third pitch and second rappel to the base of the obvious huge chimney/split to the left of the anchor. Then we bushwacked back down to the start of the climb.

    Beautiful setting and very remote considering we had to hike from the parking at the lifts (road closed for ice). South exposure makes this climb a very good choice for November.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The belay at the top of the third pitch. The last ...
    The belay at the top of the third pitch. The last bulge is just under...


    Rock Climbing Photo: The class 3 path to the summit.
    The class 3 path to the summit.

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