Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Mt. Shasta
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Avalanche Gulch 
Casaval Ridge 
Green Butte Ridge 
Hotlum Glacier Route 
Hotlum-Bolam Ridge 
West Face Gully 

Hotlum-Bolam Ridge 

AI1-2

   
Type:  Ice, Alpine, 6000', Grade IV
Original: AI1-2 [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,167
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on May 7, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
On descent after leaving the glacier

Description 

From Northgate Park follow the trail south to the base of the ridge. Continue up the ridge, easier in early season, to the top of the ridge at 12,000ft. Follow the path of least resistance, typically to the climber's right (west) to the plateau and work back left (east) to the summit. Take note of the large crevasse that forms on the Hotlum Glacier. Work well to the west of it on the descent.

Location 

North face of Mt. Shasta from Northgate Park Trailhead.

Protection 

Solo. Some parties may utilize a rope in early season.


Photos of Hotlum-Bolam Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt.Shasta from the north. Photo: Sam Mills, 2003
BETA PHOTO: Mt.Shasta from the north. Photo: Sam Mills, 2003
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Shasta from the north. photo: Mconnell
Mt. Shasta from the north. photo: Mconnell
Rock Climbing Photo: Hotlum/Bolam ridge April 14th 2014 taken from &quo...
BETA PHOTO: Hotlum/Bolam ridge April 14th 2014 taken from &quo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Another view from the North side in July 2014. Sho...
Another view from the North side in July 2014. Sho...

Comments on Hotlum-Bolam Ridge Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Paul
Mar 1, 2013

I'm wondering why it says consensus is WI5+ for this route?? It looks like it should be WI 2-3. I haven't done it, but it seems a bit counter intuitive to say WI 5+ and then suggest "no protection, solo" for protection. A little confused, Andy
By Xam
From: Boulder, Co
May 9, 2013

I think it is problem with the algorithm...it looks like it goes in order of increasing difficulty (by the website, obviously not correct) WI1, WI2, ... , WI5, AI1, AI2, ... , AI5. So the average ('consensus') of some WI1-2 and some AI1-2 is WI5+. Obviously a goof but should be simple to correct.
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Jun 20, 2013

AJ & Xam....I'm with you on this. It should be AI 1/2, but shows a consensus WI5+. Must be the algorithm.
By Mark Force
From: Ashland, Oregon
Feb 27, 2016

The gully at the western edge of Hotlam glacier can be WI 1-2 in late season when the snow cover is gone or very thin.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!