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Hot Wire 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alber and Rolofson, 1997
Page Views: 1,361
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jan 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Hot Wire.

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  • Description 

    Not too classic compared to the other routes in this sector. Despite the fact that this route has been around a few years, it still seems to be in the process of cleaning up.

    This long line is directly right of Hot Flyer. There's a bit of glue at the crux and there are scars around many of the holds on the lower half of the route... not the most aesthetic line. Nothing obviously manufactured, but I don't think I want to know how much cleaning went into putting up this route. The crux comes at the fifth bolt pulling over a small roof onto a slab... pretty tough... open hand strength is a plus. The middle section is sustained, fun 5.11. A no hands rest comes before firing through a tricky 5.12 section (watch for the loose hold) before the anchors.


    13 QDs. A 60 meter barely gets you back to the ground..

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    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 4, 2007

    Fantastic route despite the claims of it being chipped (hard to tell). It does have a lot of rock scars and friable rock in the upper dihedral, but the roof crux is way cool and the climbing very sustained -- 100 foot (30 meter) pitch. The flake at the chains is suspect and will eventually pull off (beware). Combined w/ Hot Flyer and Plan B in a single outing -- this would be a great power-endurance workout.
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 5, 2007

    Correct me if I'm wrong but.... this route seems heavily chipped. Even if there was a lot of cleaning for the first ascent, the whole middle third is covered in chisel scars and obviously enhanced crimps. A sad climb.
    By Dan Levison
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 5, 2007

    Adam, you say the route was chipped with such conviction. It's not obvious to me -- you may be correct; however, I would get the facts before making such a statement.
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 5, 2007


    I said "correct me if I'm wrong". If I'm wrong, I gladly retract. But in this case, having seen many chipped holds on other routes (particularly other Chris Alber routes) and having dogged through Hot Flyer and checked out the holds, I have little doubt that more than a couple of the holds where chipped. No need to take offense Dan. What I said had nothing to do with you. It had to do with how the route was created.


    By superjosh
    Jun 29, 2007

    I thought this was a great route, and as it cleans up with a bit more traffic it will only get better. It's very continuous and felt solid at the 12c grade--the thought-provoking crux is followed by 5 or 6 bolts of sustained 5.11 climbing. If you're tired of the overgraded one-move wonders in Boulder Canyon, check this thing out.

    As for the alleged chipping, like Dan said it's hard to tell based on appearance. It certainly doesn't climb like a chipped route, especially at the crux, which could easily have been dumbed down a couple notches with one strategically placed quarter-pad crimp.

    Either way, it's a really fun route well worth a reconnaissance burn at a minimum.
    By Alex Shainman
    From: Boulder, CO
    Nov 27, 2011

    I, myself, am surprised that I hadn't been on this rig until today. As for the quality, etc, I am a full on route snob and despite a couple holds of questionable integrity, I thought the movement was quite enjoyable. As for the (crux) hold enhancement accusations...I think the "mini strip-steak" hold starting the crux, which obviously was glued back on, should be removed and the climb sent without it. It appears that there will be ample hand grips in its absence; just a little bit harder, perhaps. As far as the right-hand sidepull, that one looks like it maybe was gouged out, but it's hard to say for sure. My impression is this route musta bin way dirtier and for a while, post FA. I'd say it cleaned up rather well. I'd knock it one star for the massive rest at the top and the slightly contrived feeling of the moves getting up to the last roof lip.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Dec 6, 2012

    I thought this was a great route despite everyone bashing on it. Quite varied and consistently tricky climbing most of the way. Super fun crux as well with some fun moves on big buckets to finish the route with great exposure!
    By Bobbi Bensman
    Apr 12, 2015
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Absolutely loved sending this route today. It was mental all the way to the anchors. Clipping the bolt over the roof was probably the crux of the route for me, because I had to climb out of sequence in an unnatural way, make the clip, to get into the crux. Who knows, being a mere 5'4" has its challenges :). There's some good rests here and there, but it is very continuous to a hard section at the very top. This route is just as awesome as its neighbor, Plan B. Good rock, super cool position, and the view of the Indian Peaks at the top of this 100 foot route doesn't suck either!
    By Mark Rolofson
    Apr 12, 2015
    rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

    Bobbi's redpoint was awesome, today, especially after the effort we spent working the route Friday & today. It has been 18 years since I redpointed this route. Chris Alber was the first to send the route on March 8, 1997. For him, the route flowed easily & he called it .12c. In fact, he'd sent it two or three times before I finally redpointed it on March 23, 1997. Hot Wire was my first hard tick after recovering from a shoulder injury. I thought it was .12d. It took me longer to redpoint it than any other .12d at Security Risk. I rated it .12c/d in my last Boulder Canyon guidebook, because I was uncertain on the grade. The route would be rated .12c if it ended at 6th bolt. Then almost every move is 5.11 until above 10th bolt. It's tricky climbing, & the most obvious way may not be the easiest sequence. This long section of the route could easily be rated .12a. After a great no hands rest below the 12th bolt, the overhung headwall is .12a/b above the bolt. Hard to cheat through this section.
    Great route even though it needs a fixed chain draw on 5th (crux) bolt to make this clip easier.
    It is important to mention Rick Leitner on the first ascent, since he bolted & cleaned the route. Then he recruited me. I straightened out the line at 9th & 10th bolts making it more sustained. I pulled off the key hold starting the crux but luckily held onto it & didn't drop it. I glued it back on as I felt it would nearly impossible without it. Nothing was chipped or manufactured. Nothing at Security Risk is chipped. Leitner established a lot of routes in Boulder Canyon in the 1990s. He didn't chip or manufacture anything until 1998. Adam Brink who thinks this is chipped is pretty ignorant & judgmental. We recruited Chris for the first redpoint. I should mention that he didn't own a drill until 1998.
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