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Hot Wing 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: B. Wolfe, J. Jones (2002)
Season: not summer
Page Views: 288
Submitted By: bernard on Jan 5, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: Hot WIng Buttress


Climb the opening 30-35 foot vertical face section. Once on top of that, begin the portion that is slightly overhanging, leading up to a large roof, move out left under the roof to a large slot. Hi-karate up through the roof. Reachy, stretchy.....you might pull a hamstring. Once past the roof, continue up to the anchors on a slightly over-vertical headwall.

A decent sport route with some strenuous movement underneath and moving past the roof. Being caught up on your yoga or pilates will help.

Kind of a feisty route with less optimal cliff structure, which prevents it from being a higher quality route.


Approx. 75 yards right (east) of Wolf Wall there is a buttress-like portion of cliff. The upper section of this is actually a free standing section of stone, separate from the actual cliff behind it. As you face this feature, you see that it is composed of a lower section of rock that is vertical, followed by a roof, above which is another vertical section. From a distance it looks kinda like a big rock mushroom tower thing.

To the left of center, underneath the roof feature, is a bolted route that begins on a vertical section of cliff that is broken by a large ledge. Above the ledge the route ascends under the roof and once meeting the roof proper, then moves laterally left to a large slot. From there very reachy moves gain holds just above the roof and continue up the final vertical section of cliff to fixed anchors.

Careful not to confuse this route with its neighbor immediately to the left, Mean Lean. ML is on the arÍte proper.....but also has its beginnings on that same 30-35 foot vertical face section of rock.


sport route with lowering anchors

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