Hot Wee Wee
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Ryan B. working though the face climbing on pitch ...
This is the giant, left-facing corner that splits the center of the Ophir Wall. It can also be located by following the grassy slope below the wall to its highest point. The first pitch is barely 5th class and many parties do not rope up for it. Much cleaner and straightforward than P.O. Crack.
1) 100 feet. 5.2? Start in corner, head up and right on easy ledges. End pitch 10 or 20 ft. below a blank looking left facing corner. No fixed anchors, a few different cracks are available.
2) 150 feet. 5.9 Face climb out left from the blank corner into a small alcove, exit alcove up and right and continue up the corner. About 30 ft. above the alcove 2 options exist. One is to traverse right to easier ground with rope drag potential. The other is to stick with corner. This is a long pitch which ends on a spacious ledge about 40 ft. left of the giant, left-facing corner.
3) 110 feet. 5.7 Climb corner to ledge with belay out left.
4) 100 feet. 5.7 Continue up corner to ledge with belay out left.
5) 60 feet. 5.9 Continue up corner with a short offwidth/chimney section to the end of the corner.
Traverse left 30 feet to anchor and rap back through your last couple belay stances (you will be rapping over Black Primo, 5.9R). When you have reached the giant ledge which is the end of pitch 2, I would recommend continuing out right (climber's) and down another 40 feet to a bolted anchor that is not visible from above. This will take you to 2 double rope rappels via new chain anchors. If done this way, you will end up a couple hundred feet right of the start of the route.
Double set of cams, set of stoppers, some long runners, one optional big piece.
The wide section of the final pitch.
Heather cruising up the fun, easy P3.
Amazing views from the wall.
Drew McLean enjoying P5. The crux was removing ...
|By Victor McConnell|
Oct 20, 2007
Great climb. This was the first route I did in the Telluride area. And it was typical of everything I found climbing in this area to be: diverse, challenging, packed with history and situated in a beautiful setting. And it was a rare day in that we ran into some other climbers (Paul Ross, who was climbing the route with his son). The final 5.9 offwidth is pretty stout. There is also a 5.9(R?) face climbing variation on the face to the left called Black Primo.
|By Matt McMurray|
From: Castle Rock, CO
Jun 24, 2008
My partner and I did this route in three LONG pitches from the base to the final anchor cable with a 70m rope. I built an anchor on the second pitch after climbing over the roof. There are a lot of bolted belays (and rap stations) so it's best to have a plan before starting.
|By Drew McLean|
Jun 20, 2010
If you only have time for one route on Ophir Wall this is the one!
#5 Camalot was "nice to have" for the p5 crux. Not to worry thought P5 is NOT and off width climb and it is NOT a chimney climb. For us it seemed like technical stemming up a corner with a wide crack that only takes big gear near the top.
The P2 5.9 was the technical crux of the route. Excellent 5.9 face climbing on featured and well protected face.
Get on it!
From: CO / NM
Aug 24, 2011
Really only one single move of 5.9 climbing in my opinion. Nice long route; it's nice to get off the ground for a change.
From: Durango, Colorado
Aug 18, 2012
On what is described as pitch 4 above, there was a wide slot with quite a few rocks that looked ready to fall if they were touched. Try and avoid jamming yourself in there, some of the rocks were pretty big.