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Hot Tuna Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cold Sushi 
Cold Turkey TR 
Eat or be Eaten TR 
Flying Fish TR 
Hot Tuna 
O-Zone, The TR 

Hot Tuna Buttress Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.2715, -118.6043 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,858
Administrators: Chris Owen, jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Tristan B on Oct 15, 2009  with updates from Matt Nicassio
Forecast:
Tonight

59°
Friday

84° | 59°
Saturday

88° | 61°
Sunday

94° | 63°
Monday

98° | 64°
Tuesday

98° | 62°
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BETA PHOTO: Hot Tuna Buttress.

Description 

There are a few top rope routes from 5.9-5.11 on this wall. At the base is a cave which has Hot Tuna a V5 roof traverse.

Protection Details: (2) SS Wave Bolts added for protection at the top of Hot Tuna Buttress. Flying Fish has had no protection besides some hangerless rusty bolts. It can now be top roped safely. You can still backup your anchor with a very long piece of webbing (probably over 50 feet needed)

Getting There 

Park at the top of Stoney. It is one of the first spots you come to on your right in the North Canyons. Just to the left of Roof Rock.

Climbing Season

For the Stoney Point area.

Weather station 0.4 miles from here

6 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',1],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hot Tuna Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hot Tuna Buttress:
Eat or be Eaten   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     TR, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hot Tuna Buttress

Featured Route For Hot Tuna Buttress
Rock Climbing Photo: First big move

Cold Sushi V10 7C+  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : Hot Tuna Buttress
Full body physicality. Looking at hot tuna from left to right, this problem starts deep in the seam beneath the second hueco. There is an amazingly positive and bomber water polished full-pad crimp to start right hand on, with the left matched on a smaller crimp to the left. Feet are technical. Pull off of your butt on the crimp and start shooting out, working toward the hueco (toe hooks?). Once in the hueco, the crux is behind you, and you can get a little rest before exiting the roof via a big...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Hot Tuna Buttress Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: hot tuna down to the left of me off camera fun cli...
hot tuna down to the left of me off camera fun cli...
Rock Climbing Photo: (2) New SS Wave Bolts at the top of Hot Tuna Buttr...
BETA PHOTO: (2) New SS Wave Bolts at the top of Hot Tuna Buttr...
Rock Climbing Photo: (2) New SS Wave Bolts at the top of Hot Tuna Buttr...
BETA PHOTO: (2) New SS Wave Bolts at the top of Hot Tuna Buttr...
Rock Climbing Photo: (2) New SS Wave Bolts at the top of Hot Tuna Buttr...
BETA PHOTO: (2) New SS Wave Bolts at the top of Hot Tuna Buttr...
Rock Climbing Photo: (2) New SS Wave Bolts at the top of Hot Tuna Buttr...
BETA PHOTO: (2) New SS Wave Bolts at the top of Hot Tuna Buttr...
Rock Climbing Photo: The face of Hot Tuna Buttress looking up from the ...
The face of Hot Tuna Buttress looking up from the ...

Comments on Hot Tuna Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Gordon
From: Hollywood, CA
Nov 9, 2009
Is there a reason Hot Tuna isn't on here? Are we trying to keep some routes secret? I don't want to rub anyone the wrong way...
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
Dec 8, 2009
Feel free to add it Rob - I would but I've never been able to complete it.
By Boots Ylectric
From: Chicago IL
Jul 11, 2012
Hot Tuna is probably the biggest reason I want to get back to Stoney Point. I managed to latch on to some local guys the one day I was there and played on that problem with them for a while. I couldn't bag it then, but I'm fairly certain I can now. I'm dying to do that route again it's so much fun.
By Matt Nicassio
Jan 25, 2016
(2) New Wave Bolts added to the top of Hot Tuna Buttress.
There are (2) old rusty hangerless bolts left up top if anyone is adept in bolt removal these should probably be removed.

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