Hot Tamale 5.10b/c
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 140 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Mike Diesen, Daryl Allen |
| Submitted By: | Mike Diesen on Jan 7, 2009 |
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Angel following Mike's lead up HT...
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Description Steep sustained and pumpy climbing up overhanging rock with minimal rests. After 70 feet take rest before pulling last 20 foot section to anchors. From anchors step left on very thin face past a couple more bolts. Cruise last section on easier ground to top. A 70 meter rope will get you to the ground from the top. Otherwise make 2 60 meter rappels back down. Could scramble to the top and walk off to the North.
Location The bolted line up the right side of the obvious alcove.
Protection bolts. midpoint anchors @ 90ft and top anchors
Angel following Mike's lead up HT...
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Angel following Mike's lead up HT...
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Mike belaying from top anchors of Hot Tamale.
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Top Rope Princess Amy going up the great Hot Tamal...
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Amy getting to the crux
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Amy happy to pull the crux
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John near the end of "Hot Tamale"
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By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Jun 9, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b
| The most sustained route on the wall IMHO. Great for running laps to build up hand strength! |
By Boodge Nomchompski
Sep 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b
| Great route, Daryl. It's cleaning up nicely - there seems to be less temporary holds on this one that on some of the others. |
By ccmski
From: Prescott, AZ
Dec 1, 2009
rating: 5.10-
| Daryl- Where does the PG-13 come from? 11 bolts in less than 100 feet of climbing to the 1st anchors... |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 1, 2009
| ccmski wrote: Daryl- Where does the PG-13 come from? 11 bolts in less than 100 feet of climbing to the 1st anchors...
Possible explanations:
1) All bolts are in the first 50 feet,
2) Elves unclip the bolts at random intervals,
3) Half of the bolts are "trick bolts" attached only with velcro. |
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Dec 1, 2009
rating: 5.10a/b
| Beats me.. no recollection of how or why i did that. Fixed! |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 2, 2009
| ... 4) honest mistake. :) |
By Mike Diesen
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Dec 2, 2009
| Actually, I could see a pg13. If you blow the 3rd clip you could split you nuts wide open on the pointed ledge just below the 2nd bolt. I already did that. That's why I have no more balls!!! :-) |
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 2, 2009
| ouch!! i vote for an x rating. |
By joedeltron
Mar 15, 2010
| A well bolted 10 with pumpy moves (thanks Angel!) Super fun with interesting features, great for taking relatively safe falls for beginning leaders. |
By Paul Davidson
Apr 28, 2011
| I think our crew felt this was our favorite climb on the wall (but we didn't do the 12s.) We did it twice actually when we ended up back on the wall for our "rest" day (Steiger's idea of rest is to lead LemmonHead (or was it Zagnut?) and Everlasting Gob. That's a Rhichard kind of rest day.)
For me, I thought the starting moves were the crux and it seemed like the 2nd clip if blown could warrant a PG13. Probably more about just adjusting to the type of climbing and being on a TR meant I wasn't very zoned in. Grossman and Mish didn't seem bothered by the starting clips.
Great position and moves, very classic Windy Point feeling. |
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