Hot Springs Canyon, located just west of San Ysidro Canyon, has a fair amount of short and undeveloped rock in it's length. Unfortunately, easy access to the canyon was lost when a landowner closed public access to the Hot Springs trail years ago. Now, one must access the canyon via the McMenemy trail which branches off from the San Ysidro trail. There is only one known recorded route here, Rock on the Coast (5.10), a classic and splitter overhanging crack. A motivated climber could surely find many untapped lines in this area.
From the parking area at the end of Park Lane in Montecito (same as for San Ysidro), hike up the San Ysidro trail for 10 minutes until you can cross the creek to the left on the McMenemy trail. Follow the trail back down the creek and take a right at the first junction which begins to switch-back up the hill. At the top of the first hill, one can see the Saddle Rock area on the next ridgeline to the west. The canyon proper sits behind this ridge. Continue on the McMenemy trail, passing the Girard trail junction. The trail begins to drop slightly downhill and contour the hillside, then you arrive at the Saddle Rock junction. Continue straight to get down into Hot Springs Canyon proper, or head uphill another 50 yards to the Saddle Rock area. Expect a 45 minute approach to Saddle Rock and an hour or more into Hot Springs Canyon.
Browse More Classics in Hot Springs Canyon
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hot Springs Canyon:
Featured Route For Hot Springs Canyon
Rock on the Coast 5.10 CA : Central Coast : ... : Saddle Rock Area
A striking parallel crack line splitting a 30-degree overhanging wall. Starts out with a few ringlock/lieback moves, then some tight hands and hands, a kneebar rest in the broken out section, and finally crank over the lip with some big cupped hands. 10 feet of easy 5th class leads to the top. Numerous features for feet help keep the difficulties down. An obscure classic; one of the best crack climbs in SB. ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA