Hot Shot WI4
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| Type: | Ice, 1 pitch, 60 feet, Grade V |
| Consensus: | WI4- [details] |
| FA: | |
| Season: | Early Dec to Early April |
| Submitted By: | Kevin Zagorda on Jul 27, 2008 |
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BETA PHOTO: A late season view of Hot Shot
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Description Short but steep, this is a very popular climb in the busy Chapel Pond Canyon. Plan on arriving early since most parties lead the route and then set up a TR to do laps. A Single rope is all you need here. It is possible to set up a TR without leading the route by heading up to the right of the adjacent "Ice Slot" and looking for an old cable to hang on to. Finding the top of the climb is not easy however and requires a short downclimb or rap of an icy gully to reach the top of the route.
Location Chapel Pond Canyon is located at the North End of Chapel Pond. Access is by walking across the frozen pond towards the narrow end from the pull out on Rt 73. There are several other pull outs farther north on the downhill that avoid walking on the pond from which one can follow the tracks into the canyon. These are normally plowed in the winter. An unplowed lot provides the most direct access but it is difficult to find (located right where the guard rail ends after passing the Chapel Pond pull out. Hot Shot is on the left side of the second ice wall as you head down the canyon The first being "Lions on the Beach". It is next to a right facing corner after a short scramble up a snowy ramp. The canyon trail is normally pretty beat out so unless you are going in right after a nor'easter you probably won't need snowshoes.
Protection Rap anchor at the top. There are 2 opportunities to rest on small ledges on the way up so the steep climbing only lasts 15-20 feet at a time.
Travis King heading for the steeps on Hot Shot...
| Hot Shot February 2011. A bit stepped out but othe...
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By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Feb 13, 2011 rating: WI3+
| A fine line up a highly traffic-ed chunk of ice. |
By Eriks Rozners From: Binghamton, NY Feb 7, 2012 rating: WI4
| Although it is downgraded to NEI 4- in the latest edition of Don Mellor's guidebook, Hot Shot is considered by many to be a classic grade 4 climb in the Canyon. Usually, it will be significantly more difficult and committing than Crystal Ice Tower or Lions, which are more representative of the NEI 4-. |
By colin rickert From: Ottawa, ON Mar 4, 2012 rating: WI4-
| This is a superb line - the best in the CP area (with the exception of Power Play) IMO |
By Kirby1013 From: Baltimore Maryland Mar 23, 2013
| Hot Shot is a solid 4. There are plenty of rests when picked out but a 4 by definition. I don't see many 3+ leaders leading this one. To the dumbasses who stole the biners at the rap/TR anchor on 3/19/13.. Put them Back! It's not trad booty! |
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