Hot Pork Sundae 5.13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.13 [details] |
| FA: | Pitch 1: Matt Lisenby, Pitch 2: Mason Earle (Equiped by Matt Lisenby) |
| Submitted By: | chris Kalous on Nov 30, 2009 |
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BETA PHOTO: Photo of Hot Pork Sundae. P1 to the first slot, p2...
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Description Two pitch route way left on the dark side of the wall. Face climb into tips splitter 5.12. Then an arching second pitch 5.13+. Perhaps Indian Creek's hardest established line.
The first pitch is a good route in its own right. The gear placed before stepping into the splitter seems a little hollow, but you will get a good stance after stepping in to place a more inspiring cam before the burl begins. 30m.
Mason Earle on the 2nd pitch "The marathon pitch culminates with a wicked left-leaning, narrowing finger splitter. The featureless left wall further increases the desperate nature of the climb, forcing you to smear your left foot above your waist." 40m
Location Way left on 2nd Meat on the shady side past most of the routes in the book. This route splits the north side of a pillar and receives virtually no sun. Vague plaque.
Protection For the first pitch: thin fingers to red camalots.
Mason Earle: "For the second pitch, I used 4 red camalots, 7 green, 2purple, 2grey, 1 blue." Although a more pedestrian rack would include some slightly larger cams for the start.
| Comments on Hot Pork Sundae |
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By Matt Lisenby
Dec 2, 2009
rating: 5.13
| Here's the scoop on Hot Pork:
I put it up about 5 years ago, free climbing the first pitch at 5.12. The second pitch will go free somewhere in the 5.13 range. The first pitch takes sizes from #0 TCU's to 2.5 inches gradually changing from tips to tight hands at the top over about 70 feet. The second pitch goes in a range of sizes(max size fists) for about 90 feet, then tapers from 1.25" to tips over about 40 feet. It is slightly offset, leans way left and is dead vertical to slightly overhanging. All of the moves are there, but I haven't linked them yet(Only tried once and not actively working it at this time). Linking the two as one long pitch seems a bit contrived due to the hands free rest at the first belay ledge(unless you just enjoy rope drag). If you like the looks of this route you should give the radioactive porksickle a go off of Potash Road-> long canyon: listed in the "physics department" on this site. www.mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/long_canyon/1062527>>> |
By chris Kalous
Dec 17, 2009
| Thanks, Matt. Should have known it was yours! I will let you know if I check it out this spring. |
By m-earle
From: Concord, MA
Apr 21, 2011
| After a few days of work this spring, I was able to send the second pitch of this line. The first pitch was 30m long. The second pitch is 40m and felt like hard 5.13. For the second pitch, i used 4 red camalots, 7 green, 2purple, 2grey, 1 blue. This is a truly awesome pitch. |
By slim
Apr 21, 2011
| nice work, that is a glorious looking line. |
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