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Pocket pulling on Hot Fudge, DQ Wall, Jtree.
This climb ascends the most obvious pocketed face on the Dairy Queen wall that is not interrupted by cracks. Climb the center of the face as pictured below. A hard crux starts the route (which felt harder than 5.9 to me) but could be avoided if you step right to start and then left after 2-3 meters of climbing. The beginning is big balance moves to a sloper and the rest is running up jugs on reasonably secure holds to the bolt anchor up top.
This route was reminiscent of Southeastern sandstone and seemed out of character for the area in general. It could be a pleasant change of pace for those wanting a break from J-tree edging and smearing.
To descend, rap off on a single rope to the ground.
Not much pro - it seemed that it was mostly consisting of slung chickenheads. If this is disconcerting, consider a top-rope. Most of the moves are secure enough to do on runout, but some are reachy and may present more difficulty for shorter climbers.
From: Newport Beach
Apr 7, 2010
This route's name is "A Hot Fudge" in the Vogel guides.
|By Tyler Knubs|
Sep 29, 2011
the photo is a lie. there is no double bolt rappel. the bolts are gone.
Oct 26, 2011
Couldn't find the bolts on top. Ended up walking off toward Lost Horse Road a little pissed off.
|By Tommy G.|
From: Irvine, California
Nov 7, 2011
Fun route! I led it, but did not notice/find any chicken heads that would have taken a sling well.
Very moderate with big holds, but quite run out. A fall at or just before getting to the second crack would be a screamer.
No bolts a the top that I could find. Going off the back into Rock Garden Valley is bad news. Scramble down near the right end of the wall I guess?
Nov 10, 2011
Somebody chopped the anchors; see the section page for walk-off info.
|By Daniel Evans|
From: Twentynine Palms, CA
Apr 26, 2013
Climbed it today. There was new bolts and rap rings.