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Bad Moon Arising T 
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Lady Luck T 
NOPE.NOPE. NOPE.NOPE.NOPE. T 
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Romanian Rib - Left Side T 
Smiley Face T 
Smooth Sailing T 
Sunset Slab T 
Sunset Slab Direct T 

Hot Flash 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 10 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George & Joanne Urioste, Bill Hotz, Larry DeAngelo
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 12,276
Submitted By: Larry DeAngelo on Oct 8, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The line of Hot Flash

Description 

This is a very nice route. The rock is good and the line is excellent. For the most part the moves are moderate, but the climb maintains a good level of interest the whole way.

At the upstream end of the First Creek Slabs, scramble up to a good, brushy ledge on the western side of the Echove. Start here and climb a flake up and left to a good ledge. The next pitch moves up and right to a crack and a belay niche above a small overhang. The large overhang above is passed by a friction traverse left to a right-slanting weakness.

The next three pitches go up the sweeping slab. Start by going up and left on easy, but unprotected, friction to reach some good cracks. On the next pitch, do not get lured left into the pink, left-facing Comeback Corner. Stay on the aesthetic central crack (passing one section of hollow flakes). At its top, this long facet is capped by an overhang which is easily passed on the left.

A short easy pitch takes you to a good ledge at the base of a mossy corner. Avoid the corner by climbing up and right for a long pitch on the slabby arete. Two more pitches continue up cracks to the summit.

Descent: follow the ramp system down and left (east) to the standard First Creek Slab descent routes.

Protection 

Standard rack, wires


Photos of Hot Flash Slideshow Add Photo
Climbers on Hot Flash p3. 4/14/09
Climbers on Hot Flash p3. 4/14/09
Oh the Humanity!!!! <br /> <br />The outrageous bolt just above the 3rd pitch belay
Oh the Humanity!!!!

The outrageous bolt just abov...
Sandra on the 2nd pitch just before traversing the face to her right.
Sandra on the 2nd pitch just before traversing the...
The beautiful start to a beautiful route.
The beautiful start to a beautiful route.
The 2nd and 3rd pitches.
BETA PHOTO: The 2nd and 3rd pitches.
 The route from First Creek Canyon.
The route from First Creek Canyon.
The start of Hot Flash.
BETA PHOTO: The start of Hot Flash.
Sunset on the descent
Sunset on the descent
The 3rd pitch start.
BETA PHOTO: The 3rd pitch start.
p.4
BETA PHOTO: p.4
p.10
BETA PHOTO: p.10
p.5
BETA PHOTO: p.5
Bolt at 4th pitch anchor with perfect rock and cracks next to it.
Bolt at 4th pitch anchor with perfect rock and cra...
The awesome p.6
BETA PHOTO: The awesome p.6
Bolted belay at the top of pitch 6.
BETA PHOTO: Bolted belay at the top of pitch 6.
p.7
BETA PHOTO: p.7
p.8
BETA PHOTO: p.8
Myself leading the corner crack on "Comeback Corner". We climbed this accidentally thinking we were doing P.5 of "Hot Flash". You're able to traverse back onto HF after another short pitch towards the right.
Myself leading the corner crack on "Comeback Corne...
p.9
BETA PHOTO: p.9

Comments on Hot Flash Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 17, 2014
By rpc
Oct 8, 2007

"FA: George & Joanne Urioste, Bill Hotz, Larry DeAngelo "

There must be an interesting story behind this one - would love to hear more.
By Jason D. Martin
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

I did the route yesterday and discovered that somebody has placed a number of bolts. The dust from their placement looks quite new. It appears that someone was rigging the route for rappelling.

Those who are interested in this route should be okay with some real run-outs. Leaders should be comfortable with some decent run-outs on 5.6 terrain and some extremely long run-outs at 5.5.

Be sure to move fast. Though the descent isn't really unusual for Red Rocks, it may feel a bit sporty to those who don't climb newer routes very often. It wouldn't suprise me if there are a few unplanned bivys on this route.

All that said, I really enjoyed the route and would highly recommend it. I will definately be doing it again.

Jason
By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 8, 2007

Bolts??!! makes me ill. . .
By meo
Nov 8, 2007

Good little route:)
Remember to step left when starting the sixth pitch this is the best pitch on the route and is the beautiful varnished crack pictured in the new guide book. All the pitches above six are blah. Not worth it unless of course your peak freak.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Nov 8, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

I agree with Larry. The beauty of that whole area is the commitment factor.
By bradLVclimber
Nov 11, 2007

This route is EXCELLENT. Lotta Balls Wall is totally crowded and loud, and this route is 200 yards away and completely empty and silent (and 3 times longer!). All of climbing pitches are really fun and offer a mixed terrain of cracks, liebacks, face climbing, roofs, and feces on the first belay. Well, after a good rain the feces will be gone and the route will go back to 4 stars. A few 4th/5th class pitches in the middle with limited pro, but very easy. Great protection available overall for the competent leader. The route finding is easy, and we (Bruce Lacroix and Brad Bartick) did the route in 5 hours over 10 pitches. The descent blows. Bring your hiking shoes in a backpack because it is just a bushwhacking mess over steep terrain (at least it was that way for us) to a final 200 foot rappel that ends just right of Romper Room. Enjoy!!!
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Nov 12, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

So is this feces human?
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Nov 12, 2007
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

If there truly are bolts on this climb it is an outrage. Besides it being illegal under the current bolting ban I find it ridiculous. Does every damn route that is fun to climb have to have bolted belays when natural anchors are abundant.

I have stood by pretty silent on this site as Killis and others rant on and on about ethics but this is in a pristine area that remains pretty much boltless besides the romper room and lotta balls area. I guess I should be reserved until I actually see the bolts but if this is true it really pisses me off.
By David Stowe
Nov 15, 2007

We did this route this past friday 11/9. The route was really fun with very easy climbing most of the way. We did notice the pile of poo on the first pitch belay. Other than that the climb was great. Really nice variety throughout with crack, corner, overhang, slab, face. There was only one protection bolt on the whole climb. After pitch 3 there is a belay on a slab/terrace, you have to do about 20 feet of unprotected slab climbing to reach a crack where you can get good gear. The bolt is at the base of this slab section. Not at all necessary, but for those where a 5.8 route is pushing the grade they will be happy that it is there. There was also a bolted station at the end of pitch 6 consisting of two bolts just after you go over an overlap. While this was also not necessary the rock in this section was questionable and I guess they wanted to make sure of a solid belay although the pitch off of this is 4th class so it is highly doubtfull that this belay would take a fall from above. We had 4 people in our group and climbed the route in parties of two with a 70m single for each. I would recommend running the last 5.7 pitch into the 4th class finish to the top with a 70M. I also would not worry about the runnout 5.5 pitchs towards the top of which there are two. On one pitch I had two pieces in about 160 feet, but the climbing was really easy low angle and I am not sure I there was actually any 5.5 on it. It was very similar the the ramp pitches at the top of Epi.

While the climbing was fun an easy, we did the whole thing in about 4 hours, the decent was long, arduous, not always clear and not always totally safe. Our path involved two rappels along with a good deal of what was probably easy 5th class down climbing. I'm pretty sure we went the right way as both raps were a sling stations. I would definitely reccomend this route to anyone competant and 5.7 or 5.8, but leave pleny of time for the walkoff as you do not want to be doing it in the dark. We climbed really fast as we started the climb at 11:30, but with an earlier start anyone should be fine.
By brucelacroix
From: Portland, OR
Nov 15, 2007

A fun route. The bolts are not necessary, hope someone removes them.
scavenged 3 chocks, hee, hee, hee, hee.
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 29, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I finally climbed this fantastic route. Definitely a new classic! Many great pitches up interesting features. The last 2-3 pitches were a bit funky but a small price to pay for the first 6 pitches of sweetness.

We found 4 bolts on the route as listed below:
  • 1 bolt on the slab just above the 3rd pitch anchor
Oh the Humanity!!!! <br /> <br />The outrageous bolt just above the 3rd pitch belay
Oh the Humanity!!!!

The outrageous bolt just above the 3rd pitch belay

  • 1 bolt at a belay stance on the right side of the slab at the 4th pitch belay. It was linked to a "fixed" nut (can you say booty).
Bolt at 4th pitch anchor with perfect rock and cracks next to it.
Bolt at 4th pitch anchor with perfect rock and cracks next to it.

  • 2 bolt anchor with chain at the 6th pitch belay just after moving around the left side of the roof below.

The first bolt we encountered on the 4th pitch seemed like it was placed as a protection bolt but wasn't really in a great place for that either. This tricky section can be avoided by moving far right and then traversing back left up about 25ft. All of the other bolts were next to perfect, solid cracks(no exaggeration).
By phil broscovak
Jan 30, 2008

Just curious, if you found the bolts so offensive why did you clip them?
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 30, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

I did not personally clip any of them but my partner is probably less of a purist. I am also not so stuck up to force her to not use them if she felt like it.

Ultimately though, I am saddened that on this vast wall many routes have went up without a single bolt and then someone who wasn't on the FA and did not consult the FAists went up and decided to add bolts in somewhat questionable places.

Another wild place has been tamed by the least common denominator.
By phil broscovak
Feb 14, 2008

I agree with you Karsten. Just had to ask the question.
By Doug Hemken
Administrator
Feb 15, 2008

Even a woman who is pure in heart
and says her prayers by night
may become a wolf when the wolfbane blooms
and the autumn moon is bright.

Those convenience bolts will make sinners of us all.

And here was a climb that was fast on its way to becoming well-traveled, without any bolts and with a less-than-convenient descent. What will they do next, start adding more bolts to "Cat in the Hat?"
By Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?
From: Vegas
Apr 16, 2008

A must do route in First Creek Canyon.

Thanks for putting this one up Larry, Jorge, and Joanne, and Bill!

What a happy climb!
By John Hegyes
From: Las Vegas, NV
Apr 16, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We found 2-bolt belay stations at the top of pitches 3, 5 and 6. At this point it may be possible to rap the route with double ropes from the top of 6 but this has not been verified.

Personally, I don't believe the bolts are necessary and I feel that the standard descent is safe, scenic and quick. Furthermore, if the FA team puts up a route without bolts, I don't think that anyone should come in behind with a bolt gun without permission.

And by the way, I don't believe the bolter did a real good job. See comments here.
By Josh Audrey
From: LAS VEGAS
Oct 13, 2008

The bolts on this route reck the the feel of the climb. The last couple pitches are garbge, that being said well worth it to top out. Thnx to Karstens description on the decsent, getting down in the dark was easy.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 29, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

for what its worth, i did the route today and we noticed that the bolts on top of the 5th pitch were dangerously loose and not all the way in the rock. that said, having done the route, i would skip that station altogether- its far enough off route and the stance is sub-par anyway, might as well just belay in the main crack.

i also didnt see the anchor on the 3rd, but maybe i wasnt paying attention. the 6th pitch anchor was still present.

the upper pitches weren't so bad, and the descent has seen enough traffic that its relatively bush free and quick- i remember when that thing took 2hrs to get down, and we easily did it in one (big thanks to Karsten for the rap slings!)
By Arne Gelfert
Nov 6, 2008

We climbed this route on Oct 20, 2008, and had a really good time. After scoping out the approach (we thought) and the descent by climbing "Lady Luck" the day before, we found the scramble to the rappel route straight forward. However, getting to the first pitch was not. We roped up way below the start of the route. The big flake is kind of hard to see from below.

Pitch 1 had the hardest moves. Pitch 2 was great. Pitch 3 a little short but not really run-out if you have some small gear. We did use the bolts on top of P3 (lazy). The start of P4 is run-out alright but super easy and long and fun. Then, we screwed up. The belay after P4 was obvious but rather than traversing far enough right (and back onto the main face) for P5, we had our eyes set on the beautiful corner crack ahead of us and started climbing on "Comeback Corner". I figured it out too late. But the next pitch (6) brought us back around to the top of P6 of "Hot Flash". Clearly, we'll have to return for the money pitch of Hot Flash (#6) and climb the start of CC. The next two pitches were lame. But the last two up the "mossy corner" were great even though the rock looked awful. There were great holds and some exciting exposure.

For me, this was just the right mix of easier and harder climbing with some route finding and an adventurous descent. If you know any similar routes of this grade and length, let me know.
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Nov 9, 2008

Climbed Nov 2. Pretty good approach for RR. It was my first time on the slabs. P 1-6 are very good. The last pitches add character and take you to the top of a small tower. I think there has been enough comments on the bolts. Wander down the brushy ledge to the first creek rappels. The decent was done with two big horns who skipped all rappels.
By rockratrei
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 20, 2009

Rapping the route from pitch 6 is not a good idea. Going over the roof cuts ropes ! The anchors should never have been added.
By Karl K
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 22, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Good climb, but most of the pitches are severly over-rated in the Handren guide. Here is my take:
P1 - 110' 5.8 (the only 5.8 move on the whole climb; maybe 5 feet worth)
P2 - 140' 5.7 (best pitch on the climb, IMO; start may be 5.8 if you are short; roof is easy and well-protected)
P3 -60' 5.6 (traverse left is unprotected, but 5.5; roof is maybe 5.4 and protectable with small gear)
P4 - 190' 5.6 Step left from bolt belay and up to crack/corner; climb to great ledge on left (below comeback corner)
P5 - 120' 5.5 Step back right to great crack splitting varnished face; lots of features. Either set a hanging belay or step right to bolt belay
P6 - 140' 5.6 Continue up great crack; about 20' below roof traverse left on good holds to crack that bypasses roof
P7- 90' 5.0 Scramble up easy rock (loose & friable - the only bad rock on the route) to big, rock-strewn ledge. Belay off tree about 15' back from edge.
P8 - 150' 5.3 Avoid mossy corner by stepping onto red arete to the right. Easy & fun. (We simulclimbed pitches 8 & 9, so belay is unknown, but should be easy to find one and to set up)
P9 - 100' 5.4 Continue up easy arete until rock steepens; I set a near-hanging belay on a crack on right side of arete about 40' below the roof.
P10 - 80' 5.7- Climb through bad-looking section of rock (turns out its solid, but lichen covered); I avoided the roof by climbing the arete just to its right. Creative pro makes this well protected. Up to belay niche in corner.
P11 - 100' 5.0 Continue up corner/crack to ledge at top.

Great climb, just easier than advertised. Good fun, solid rock, and very well protected at the cruxes (and most of the way really); with a quick and easy descent (if you know what you are doing)
By Chris Wenker
From: Santa Fe
Apr 20, 2010

Yes, easier than advertised. P1 has 5 feet worth of 5.8. P2 & P3 each have 5 feet worth of 5.7. The rest is cruiser 5.1-5.6.
The bolts are completely unneccessary and stupid. Stupid, stupid bolters. Bad.
Also, it's amazing to see bighorn scat on the ledge at the top of P7; how do they get there?
By Tim Anders
From: Las Vegas
Oct 13, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Awesome route.
By Tom Fralich
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 1, 2010

Loved this climb. We did the alternate descent described in the Handren guidebook that connects with the Lotta Balls descent and it was very straightforward. Just descend the ramp to the lowest point and look for some cairns leading down a gully to a steep offwidth. Two 30m rappels and some very brief class 3 leads to the Lotta Balls descent. This descent offers the advantage of gaining progress out the canyon as you descend.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Apr 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Fun route. Climbed it in 8 pitches with a 70m rope.

Pitch 5 -From the top of pitch 4, climb 70m up the awesome crack and set up a hanging belay 30' below the roof.
Pitch 6 - Go left to pull the roof and continue up past the bolted station to the rock strewn ledge at the base of the red slab.
Pitch 7 - Climb the the red slab, then after the slab turn back white belay at the higher of two scrub oaks. A #2 supplements the scrub oak.
Pitch 8 - Continue up the slab, then follow the cracks to the top. You will need to simul about 40 feet of 4th/easy 5th to make this happen.

Also, the red slab pitch is pretty much a solo. You get a piece at about 40' and another at 90'. The gear gets better after that. If you're not comfortable doing that, from the base of the red slab move out left and climb the last two pitches of Comeback Corner. Then 4th class it back right to the last pitch of Hot Flash.
By Nick Hamill
Jun 9, 2011

Combined the 2nd and 3rd pitches, sort of, by avoiding the left traverse of the roof and going thru the channel on the right. With a 60m rope, I had barely enough slack to make it to a pair of spinning hangers at the start of the slab.
On the 6th pitch, I again went right instead of left at the roof and tried to stretch the rope as much as possible but wasn't able to reach the end of the 7th pitch.
Took a wrong turn above by following the left column's arete instead of the right and eventually ended under a large roof surrounded by a lot of broken rock. I think this might be how comeback corner ends(?). That added an extra pitch of easy traversing.
By Cultivating Mass
Nov 6, 2011

I'm glad Sqwirll alluded to the scene going on with the climbing past the last bolted station, and I hope my experience helps out those who had to muddle through all the comments to come out with an unclear picture.

The lower part of the route is interesting, mostly well protected rock climbing that transitions from solid white rock to solid pink, white, and black varnish. The climbing here is fun, keeps you paying attention, and is generally very worth doing. The bolts put in on this lower section are stud bolts that aren't of the highest quality, and they are in at least one instance placed in a questionably aesthetic/ethical spot (next to crack, see silly photo #2 above.) That said, there are not bolts for rapping where there is a tree that suffices (I'd rather rap off bolts than an anorexic scrub, personally), and the station above the steep roof pull is pretty mandory to keep rope drag reasonable and not tack on a 25' horizontal traverse to the top of an already winding pitch. The pro bolts above this are not what most folks would call "too close", and I found the lead to be interesting and engaging climbing, with a line that required a couple of bolts to connect to the next crack system, the other alternative being a long pitch up a sandy gully that had nothing appealing about it at all. The beautiful corners and cracks above are the entire reason for climbing this wall, and would maintain an X rating without the bolts, period. I like X-rated routes fine (and videos, for that matter), but there isn't any reason to have body belays on white rock shallow ledges in this day and age of technology and advancement other than conceit.

The top 500' of the route then tackles a runout slab that IS essentially a solo-I got three pieces of gear in on the first 230' pitch (read:full 70m stretch), and three pieces on the last pitch, same length. The rock is not nearly as good on this upper section, the line is kind of uninspiring (avoiding the plentiful gear AND the pretty black/red corner for soloing up a sandy red rotten face is a bonehead move for the leader on that pitch from the FA party, that variation is highly reccommended if topping out so you get SOME enjoyment out of the last 2 pitches..), and the descent is decently long if you top out, walk/scramble way over, rap/downclimb 1000' to the base of Rising Moons, and still have to walk back ten minutes to grab your packs, rather than just doing the good climbing, rapping, and moving on with your life.

For those who are not attempting the upper Labrynth Wall, who do not hate bolts like the KKK hates people that eat fried chicken, and who are not fans of doing almost 500' of worthless sand-slabbin' to "top out" on a big ledge to then see tons more 'a them Evil Bolts in a big, brushy gully that is a bit of a drain to descend from a summitless "summit", I reccommend bringing some old slings and a few biners with you to back up any missing or sun-bleached stations, and rapping from the last bolted station (just after the very, very black face, at the not-great stance) to save yourself the trouble. Non-bolt haters might take the extra time saved after enjoying ONLY the ENJOYABLE part of the route to head over to Lotta Balls Wall, climb a great Joe Herbst-Randal Grandstaff route (those evil, evil bolters) by the same name, and do a shorter, easier rap down a brushy gully having done two good routes in a day, as opposed to one that's mostly good, and a long, pain-in-the-ass descent.

That's my 2 cents but I personally think what the route needs is MORE bolts, not less. A couple more anchors up there and a few pro bolts on the last pitches, and at least you'd be climbing safer garbage to get to the "top." All the talk about the Labyrinth Wall being boltless and staying that way is pretty funny-has anyone repeated the Guiness Book, Jay Smith's first Red Rock route, put up WAY back, 5.11, and seen whether he placed a bolt or three? My guess is that the johnny-come-latelys who have tried to impose their own views and faults to this chunk of stone, and not climbed the original line on the wall before they started blowing hot air like an airport bathroom hand dryer, haven't.

Just for fun: preserving for future generations, the proudest moment in Red Rock climbing so far:
By BScallout
Nov 6, 2011

Nice rant Killis. At least the scowler looks smoking hot, eh?
By Billcoe
Apr 5, 2012

[Quote=killis]"The pro bolts above this are not what most folks would call "too close", and I found the lead to be interesting and engaging climbing, with a line that required a couple of bolts to connect to the next crack system, the other alternative being a long pitch up a sandy gully that had nothing appealing about it at all. The beautiful corners and cracks above are the entire reason for climbing this wall, and would maintain an X rating without the bolts, period. I like X-rated routes fine (and videos, for that matter), but there isn't any reason to have body belays on white rock shallow ledges in this day and age of technology and advancement other than conceit." [/quote]

Clearly we were on different routes as this one needs no bolts. They should be removed per the FA wishes noted up thread. EXCEPT! I will add - thanks for the rap bolts in that gully! It was only a matter of time till some poor tired soul tripped in the 3rd/4th class stuff and rolled to his/her death.
By nealg
Apr 18, 2012

Did the route on 4/17/12.

There are a total of 6 bolts - all at anchors at top 3rd, 5th, and 6th pitches. The one's at top of the 3rd p. are totally mandatory. The others are debatable but welcome.

This is NOT a route for a new 5.8 leader. I found the route finding a little challenging and the runout at the start of the 4th p. serious. Though this runout section is basically 5.6 (who knows maybe its 5.5 or 5.7?) - if one falls before getting gear in, the result would be a nearly (b/c of the slide) factor-2 fall on the anchor (of which the 2 bolts that constitute this anchor are not perfect). One bolt b/w the anchor and the crack is needed.

Also, the descent was nothing like the description in the new Handren (sp?) guidebook. Rapping the slab gully that starts about 400' down from the topout was not entirely straightforward...there are 4 nicely bolted rap stations (none from trees): 1st at the top, 2nd ~110ft down on R, 3rd on left wall >200ft down, and fourth below pine tree > 300 feet down slab - we added a few intermediary one's. It would be challenging to descend this gully in the dark. Beware that some downclimbing / intermediate stations are needed.

Overall, this was a great RRs adventure with excellent climbing and position. However, don't treat the ascent/descent of this route like other RRs trade routes.
By Max Tepfer
From: Bend, OR
Nov 8, 2013

FWI: Maybe I missed it, but didn't see specific descent beta outlined above and the Handren Guide's beta is not fully accurate for the option that doesn't merge back w/Lotta Ball's descent. As is stated in the guidebook, descend the gully to the east 300-400 vert until an obvious rap anchor on the left below a large pine tree. Make single rope rappels until you're above a large low-angle slab-complex/amphitheater. Two double ropes into this will get you to the bottom of the amphitheater and then you make straight-forward double rope raps to the ground.
By Bill Lawry
From: New Mexico
May 17, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We did the descent link-up to the normal descent from Lotta Balls Wall. I do NOT recommend it as one slip rapping the offwidth / chimney could find you wedged in there. On the other hand, if you like adventure rapping then this may be the way for you.

Approach via the wash/stream bed. That way you have a better view of when one might start scrambling up. We came by way of the Lotta Ball approach, traversing across the base of Romper Room, and it was a little hard to be sure where to head up to Hot Flash - we made one false start/scramble burning about an hour - plus it gets a little technical towards the end of the traverse which slows things down and can be avoided.

No doubt, ALL of the bolts should be chopped. They are unnecessary and ruin the nature of the route; they are really out of sync with the stance belays higher up.