|Notchtop & vicinity
An ephemeral route. It can be reached by an optional approach pitch, which is usually a thin, steep slab to a ledge.
When Hot Doggie was first climbed, it was not touching down. Alex Lowe climbed the back wall, and then hucked onto the hanging ice. No bolts were used.
When my partner and I climbed Hot Doggie some years ago, it had a pillar touching down. The pillar ice was very strange, styrofoam like and unusually wind sculpted from the hurricane winds that blow through here. Feels overhanging, until the curtain is reached.
Beneath the N. Face of Notch Top. Get off by a rappel. This had a fixed anchor (old school) some years back.
Ice screws. Presumably, when the pillar touches down, rock gear can be place.
|By Roy Leggett|
May 3, 2006
Steve Su and I climbed this on November 26, 2005. We fixed a Knifeblade for a belay 20 feet to the left of the start of the pillar. Another blade or some RPs would complement the anchor and is recommended given the fallout terrain and the tenuous nature of the route and its protection (especially at the start).
We also fixed an angle approx. 10 feet up in the crack at the back of the wall.
The "approach" pitch is a little exposed and you may want to consider roping up.
Also, given that this usually forms as a free hanging pillar of sorts, you should consider just using rock gear at the start, then gunning for the supported ice near the top before placing any screws.
From: city, state
Aug 17, 2007
Cordes and I climbed this winter '03? Best single pitch in the park?