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Hot and Ready  

Hueco: V11 Font: 8A

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V11 Font: 8A [details]
FA: Ian CB or Old School
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 410
Submitted By: Rock Warrior Films on May 21, 2012
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Crappy picture of the wall

Description 

Start as for Ballistic and do a huge move out right to an edge. Then top it out. A simple, short, and hard problem.


Location 

From the parking lot on the right before the ranger station at the north shore walk down hill on the gravel trail towards the lake and when you see an obvious cube boulder just off the trail to the right bust up into the woods to the right and trend south about a hundred feet. Very close to the trail. The problem faces downhill.


Protection 

A couple pads



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By Rock Warrior Films
Apr 30, 2013

Did this today. The rock was very sticky. This was substantially harder than Ballistic for me. And also because I know it's coming I think this is a different problem... or something:)

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Apr 30, 2013

Nice work Ian! This looked super hard.

By nicros fivten
Apr 30, 2013

This isn't the same thing as B-stick? seems like the same thing.. What will we do when someone writes a guidebook?

By Rock Warrior Films
Jun 2, 2013

Judging from your bombshell I take it that you tried this and didn't send Nic? This was very hard for me. Cooler than a number of scrappy few movers that get alot of traffic in major climbing areas too. Just my opinion anyways...

By nicros fivten
Jun 3, 2013

The bombshell comes from the fact that this problem is the same as Ballistic and for the record I came closer to doing it this way that the other. This is the same debate as the Alpine Club and Velvet Hammer, both are the same problem with different sequences. Thank god we are not climbing routes, Willow river would be a nightmare!

I have also said this before:

I like Ian, I am syked someone else is syked! He has worked hard putting up problems and I really respect that. We just disagree about what quality and a "new" problem are. That being said I would rather have BOMBS get put up than no problems.

By Rock Warrior Films
Jun 3, 2013

I am psyched you are psyched Nic. If we get another good cold snap you should swing down. It would be fun.

By madisonchoss
Jun 4, 2013

This is a different problem. So is Velvet Hammer. Hammer Club is not. The difference between these and that is that they end in different places (even though you still stand on top of the same boulder. Different boulder problems need to have either a unique start or or a unique finish, but not both.

Joe's Valley example for Nic:

Wills of Fire / They Call Him Jordan: same boulder problem, They Call Him Michael is just climbing a v6 with v8 beta.

Wills of Fire / We Call Him Michael, different boulders because they start in different places even if they start the same.

Back to the lake:

Velvet Hammer / Alpine Club, Different boulders because they start in the same place but end differently

Velvet Hammer / Hammer Club, same boulder problem, one is just easier than the other (don't care which, my stance is that they are about the same)

Ballistic / Hot & Ready, differnt boulder problems because they start in the same place but end differently

It's true that these don't diverge as much as longer problems, but you're doing unique climbing 100% of the time (after the start hold) so they're as legit as longer problems that have time to diverge more (though lower quality purely because they're shorter, not because the finishes are closer).

These are the standards I use when deciding whether or not to "count" a climb (I have my own personal goals - some things count, others don't because they're dumb).

My chossy 2c.

By madisonchoss
Jun 4, 2013

also this gets one star because there is a cool move. It gets no more than that because you can jump to the top from a pad, it's likely that you'll dab, sometimes it's wet, and, most importantly, i can't do it.

By Rock Warrior Films
Jun 4, 2013

5 stars madison choss!