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Hostile Takeover Variation 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 82'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a [details]
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Page Views: 265
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Feb 15, 2008

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Description 

This variation to Hostile Takeover climbs the beautiful 25'-tall, green-lichen coated arete right of Under Siege before joining Hostile Takeover. This line is a good option for those who can't get enough of Hostile Takeover, but is probably the lesser of the two versions, and only slightly more difficult. This version is also a bit more heady--the 4th bolt is mostly for looks, as it is nearly impossible to clip until such point as it is no longer terribly helpful.

Head up the let side of the arete with good sidepulls in the obvious diagonal cracks on the face. Several good stances right of the arete are available in the first 10 feet. Around the second bolt, move left onto the face, generally keeping the right hand on the arete, as the left hand works thin crimps and shallow cracks on the face. Tiny footholds lead to an obvious break at the third bolt, where the holds diminish and aesthetic (though disconcerting) green lichen abound. Several difficult crux-like moves lead to a desperate stance, eye-level with the 4th bolt. Attempt to clip and risk decking as your feet grease off lichen coated ripples, or gun for the ledge and clip at waist-level from good jugs. Mantle the ledge, rest up, steady your nerves, and join Hostile Takeover for 60 more feet of excellent edging.


Location 

This route follows 4 bolts with red hangers immediately right of "Under Siege" to a large ledge, where it heads right to join Hostile Takeover at the obvious bulge. This is also the first bolted line left of the large dihedral at the center of the Right Arrow.


Protection 

Bolts, 2BA.



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By MattL
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 25, 2009

A good line for sure- great heel hooking fun on the arete. Maybe a little soft for the grade.