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Hospital Rock Area
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Bobino, The 
Bobino Direct, The 
Cave Boulder- South Face  
Coyote Den, The 
Dangleberry Crack 
Fat Darrell Sandwich 
Hassle Hoffwidth, The 
Highball Wall, The 
Holus-Bolus 
Juicifer 
Ledger's Bulge, The 
Lunch Bucket Ledge 
Lunch Lady Land 
Middle Way, The 
Parking Lot Boulder 
Player's Piano 
SARS And Stripes Forever 
Stairway 
Timber Tantrum 
Try-Angles Wall, The 
Willowwacks Crack, The 
Unsorted Routes:

Hospital Rock Area 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 2,700'
Lat, Long: 36.5205, -118.7735 Map
Page Views: 3,833. Good page? (9 likes)   
Administrators: M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Ben F. on Oct 18, 2011

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What's New
  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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BETA PHOTO: Hospital Rock main wall. Large photo, zoom in. L...

Description 

From the 1993 Southern Sierra SEKI climbing guidebook, pg 281:
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This quartzite band hosts a number of two-pitch routes of moderate difficulty. The fairly solid quartzite provides an interesting contrast to the predominant granite, and when the upper elevations are snowed in, it is sometimes possible to rock climb here in relative comfort. Park at a turnout .4 mile above the parking lot for the Hospital Rock Indian Display, and walk directly up a steep trail to the base of the popular Lunch Bucket Ledge route (2-3 pitches, 5.6-5.8, many variations). Pick your line almost anywhere on the rock; it's difficult to find a route harder than 5.9.
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This area has seen a little bit of development since, but not much.
There is a lot of potential here.

Routes are short (1-3 pitches), varied in difficulty, and most of them can be top roped.
Although not abundant, more difficult routes and projects have definitely been found.

Good to keep in mind as a plan B for when the weather on Moro turns ugly, but there is enough climbing to fill a day here. The weather is tolerable pretty much all year, it's never really crowded, easily accessible, and only a short walking distance to bathrooms and picnic tables. Excellent spot for an afternoon of climbing, swimming, and barbecuing.

There's some bouldering throughout the area, but the river boulders are best reserved for mornings or winter, as this is the only spot that can become crowded during tourist season. Drownings occur every single year at this spot, please don't test the river.

Bears, mosquitoes, poison oak, ticks, and rattlesnakes all exist here, so take necessary precautions. Rock fall has also occurred here, and it's still occasionally shedding its skin. So be weary, as you would be at any developing climbing area, and keep yourself and others safe.

Bear boxes are provided by the parking lot. USE THEM.

Camping can be found nearby at Buckeye Flats from spring to fall, or Potwisha campgrounds back toward the 198 entrance. Check at the entrance for availability or call the visitors center.

(Quick note: The names and grades given to all the routes are arbitrary and purely for informing anyone curious about the area. Although I've searched far and wide, original FA information is basically non-existent. If anyone has information, by all means, send me the info, please. However, it's very likely that the Yokuts were anti-campusing this whole thing centuries ago, so the easy FA's will likely never be known. Enjoy and respect the area, and if you come across something worth climbing, please share.)


Getting There 

From Visalia/Three Rivers, take the 198 up through the park entrance. Only a short distance from there to the Hospital Rock parking lot. Look for the sign, hard to miss.

There is a decent climber's trail breaking off of the Middle Fork Trail (north-west of the parking lot). Hug the base of the cliff to avoid various trails to nowhere.

Note: The turnout the SEKI guidebook refers to can only accommodate 1-2 vehicles, and the approach directly up the hill is steep and through some nasty weeds.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hospital Rock Area:
Fat Darrell Sandwich   V3     Boulder, 15 feet   
Holus-Bolus   5.7+     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Timber Tantrum   5.8     Trad, 50 feet   
The Bobino Direct   5.8     TR, 45 feet   
Lunch Bucket Ledge   5.8+     Trad, 3 pitches, 250 feet, Grade II   
The Hassle Hoffwidth   5.10-     Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet   
Lunch Lady Land   5.10-     Trad, 50 feet   
The Coyote Den   5.11-     TR, 35 feet   
Juicifer   5.11 R     Trad, TR, 50 feet   
Browse More Classics in Hospital Rock Area

Featured Route For Hospital Rock Area
The Coyote Den in late afternoon sunlight

The Coyote Den 5.11-  CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon Nati... : Hospital Rock Area
Unique, slightly overhung, quite sustained despite the brevity, and surprisingly difficult, especially if done from the very bottom.The start is located at the lowest point below the anchor in a cramped nook surrounded by waste/chest high boulders about 3-4 feet south of a small 'cave'. Falling on the first few moves can result in some scrapes and bruising from swinging into the boulders behind and to the sides of you.Skipping the low start brings the grade down a bit, but still quite a challeng...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Hospital Rock Area Slideshow Add Photo
The north-west corner of the Upper Lunchbox. If someone could rig a creative top rope, I've always thought this would be a cool project. The last 10 feet or so of the face looks nearly impossible...(for me anyways)

The north-west corner of the Upper Lunchbox. If so...

The quartzite formations in the late afternoon, taken from a few miles up the highway.

The quartzite formations in the late afternoon, ta...

Topping out, first time doing Juicifer without any hangs, November 2011

Topping out, first time doing Juicifer without any...

Lunchbox Ledge, Hospital Rock Area, Sequoia NP CA

BETA PHOTO: Lunchbox Ledge, Hospital Rock Area, Sequoia NP CA

Looking down at the start of the second pitch from the top of Lunch Bucket Ledge on hospital rock.  Park in the turnout past the hospital rock parking lot to access this area

Looking down at the start of the second pitch from...

For the time being, this is the best topo I can come up with. Not 100% precise, but you should be able to get a general idea from it. <br /> <br />NOTE: This covers <10% of the formations. So much potential here.

BETA PHOTO: For the time being, this is the best topo I can co...

A south view from the three bolt anchor on the Upper Lunchbox.  A little technical at the start on the south tip, barely 5th class, if at all, but plenty of places for gear. A good first lead for a timid beginner.

A south view from the three bolt anchor on the Upp...

December 2011, the base of the Lower Lunchbox, just after the climbers trail breaks off of the Middle Fork Trail.

December 2011, the base of the Lower Lunchbox, jus...

second pitch of lunch bucket ledge

second pitch of lunch bucket ledge