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Hospital Corner 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 240'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Harrion and Smith, 1977
Page Views: 11,109
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006

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Jeff Crow on the second pitch of Hospital Corner. ...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The is the best 5.10a climb at the Leap, and it should not be missed if you are a 5.10 climber. It is located on the right side of the main wall.

P1: Follow a fun steep 5.8 corner for 120ft to a set of fixed anchors.

P2: The money pitch. Follow the continuous right-facing corner with jams and lieback moves. Milk the stems for rests, since the hardest moves are at the end of the pitch.

Rap with 2 ropes or a single 70M.

Protection 

Gear to 3", with extra cams in the mid range


Photos of Hospital Corner Slideshow Add Photo
Lukas cruising the midway crux.
Lukas cruising the midway crux.
My good friend Keith Hancock stealing the lead and having fun on Hospital Corner
My good friend Keith Hancock stealing the lead and...
The start of the crux pitch...
The start of the crux pitch...
The final rest before the crux...
The final rest before the crux...
First pitch from the starting corner.
BETA PHOTO: First pitch from the starting corner.
The first crux
BETA PHOTO: The first crux
Unknown climbers on the money pitch of Hospital Corner
Unknown climbers on the money pitch of Hospital Co...

Comments on Hospital Corner Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 3, 2014
By manuel rangel
From: Tempe, Arizona
Feb 20, 2006

I agree it was an awesome climb. Well protected and great rests made it a fun end to the day.
By richard magill
Jun 10, 2006

Great route- 5.10 doesn't get any better than this.
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Dec 14, 2006

If you go up this climb with 2 60m ropes, you can rap all the way to the ground (Main ledge) in one rap.

Also, I have not done this but have seen it, you should be able to rap with a single 60m, but you have to go to the right, onto some of the anesthesia bolted anchors. Please note that I've heard people do this, but I haven't done it myself.

Fabulous route. Also try the Gamoke, just to the right. A little grungier from lack of traffic, but better and steeper than it looks. If you can handle Hospital, you can do the Gamoke.
By D. Shaw
Jul 5, 2007

Did this stellar route just after the Angora fire was out. This might be one of the finest routes I've done in 25 years of climbing, at this grade (10a is just right - no moves harder, but lots of those). We had Carvell's old (yellow) guide. Do not use his old advice on gear. The earlier comment is correct - take 3" stuff and even bigger. There are lots of slots for larger pieces and you can protect the crux moves on pitch 2 using cams in a hand-sized crack to the left of the corner. Also, you can indeed rap' down on a 60 meter rope now if you angle down onto the route to your right. We did this - just watch carefully for the new (to me anyway) anchors on the bolted route on the face.
By Steve C
From: Missoula, MT
Jul 27, 2007

I agree that this is an outstanding route- as good as any pitch of 10a climbing I've ever done. The dikes that characterize the rock at lovers leap are absent on this route, making it very interesting. One of the Climbing magazine covers features a shot of Hospital Corner that clearly shows the beauty of the route. See the cover for issue 178, August 1998.
By EMT
May 13, 2008

great climbing. Bring a 70m and it's 2 easy raps to the ground.
By Sascha von Meier
Jun 5, 2008

If you don't mind a short pitch of dirty adventure climbing, you can top out in 2-3 additional pitches. From the top of p2, go up slightly left to the Slash and then follow the ramp diagonally up right, being VERY CAREFUL not to knock anything loose (especially if there's a party below you). Keep an eye out for another bolted anchor on your left, which is reached by a short face traverse.

From here, go more or less straight up the flakes and dikes, perhaps 5.8+. There is one short wide section and probably many variations. I've been told you could run it all the way to the top in one pitch, but you may have enough rope drag to prefer belaying on an obvious ledge. The roof directly above is allegedly 5.9+ but my partner and I opted to go right and then up for moderate and somewhat run-out face climbing over dikes. A fabulous summit experience!
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Jun 28, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Stellar second pitch!
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

I always thought the first pitch was 5.6 and kind of a pile. The second pitch is excellent.
By Branden916
Jul 30, 2011

This route was always on my list of routes to do and I finally did it and it was kinda disappointing. The first pitch is basically jumbled crap and the second pitch was cool but it certainly looks better in pictures than it actually climbs. This would be a great route for a new 5.10a leader; plenty of stances, bomber gear, and decent exposer. I easily rapped with a 70m.
By Mike Stearns
Aug 27, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Per Steve C's recommendation.


Climbing 178 - Hospital Corner
Climbing 178 - Hospital Corner
By Morgan Nutting
From: Bishop, CA
Jun 15, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

A must do for any crack addict! Love it!
By Patrick Mulligan
Oct 22, 2012

Got on this again after 8 years or so from my original onsight of the climb. What a great route. The crux moves are technical and positive. Get on it!
By Colin Brochard
From: San Francisco
Aug 23, 2013

If you end up descending with one 60m (as we did) via the tension rapell to the right to some old anchors, watch out for loose flakes etc. The party who descended after us pulled a rather large 50-100 lbs flake off. Fortunately we had moved on to a nearby climb when the flake was dislodged, but watching this block explode on a ledge about 15 ft frm our stuff was pretty gnarly.
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Aug 3, 2014

This route can be rapped with one 60m with no shenanigans. Just rap climber's right to the SECOND anchor (the first has 3 buttonhead bolts and the second, which is about 15 feel lower, has modern bolts). This rap is maybe 50-60 feet. Then rap about 80 feet to another anchor (buttonheads but in good condition). Then 95 feet to the ground.

Stellar route and not as hard as it looks.