|The Weasel Formation
|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 240', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c C1 [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Layne Potter, John Glime. 16th June, 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Best in 100f|
|Page Views: ||1,792|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Jun 19, 2008|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
Climb like an Egyptian...
. Situated on the Weasel left of the central climb of Ozymandias. The detached tower in the shape of Horus the Egyptian Hawk God.A fun tower with great situations on the final pitch. The climb starts up the thinner right hand crack on the right side of the tower. P1)Climb a short easy chimney to a ledge then follow steep cracks on the right,odd free moves ,strenuous.( Now that its cleaned it might go free at about 5.10ish)The crack leads to a large sloping ledge at the gap between the tower and the main wall . Double anchors 160'5.8 C1/2 P2).Follow bolt ladder out left below the big roof to the exposed edge ,then straight up the face to a short slab ,climb this to a fine summit.80'5.6 C1. Register in cairn. Descent . Single 60m rope rap to the gap then double rope rap from top of P1 to the ground
On the Weasel formation just left of Ozymandias
Cams for first pitch:- Double rack from 1/2" to 3" then three # 3.5. two 4" two #5 friends and one # 6 friend might be of use. Stoppers. Slings ,about 15 quick draws /biners. Two 60m ropes .
What's next...... Layne with scope. Perfect desert...
John following pitch 2
BETA PHOTO: Route on Horus Tower.
On Summit looking north
Paul reaching the edge of the tower on Pitch 2. Ph...
BETA PHOTO: Lads on top . First ascent of Horus Tower.Terrier ...
John jumaring start of Pitch 2 . photo Layne Potte...
Paul starting pitch 2 Photo L.Potter
View from the summit looking south. photo Layne Po...
John following Pitch 2. photo Layne Potter
BETA PHOTO: Looking up to the Weasel from the camping area.. A...
Telephoto of the summit
|By John J. Glime|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 19, 2008
Actually a very fun route. You won't be disappointed.
|By Leonard Coyne|
Jun 29, 2008
Looks brilliant. I'll be stateside come Sept 08 with my mate (who you met Mick Haffner). Let's hook up and climb in the Swell,
Jun 29, 2008
Dear Leonard . Will be nice to see you both in the fall.However must point out that your team is obligated to provide the refreshments.Its an old San Rafael tradition. Actually the only reason we climb there (including the summer months) is in order to get a really good dehydration.So.....bring plenty
Jan 5, 2014
Soloed this yesterday. Great route. It would be really fun to free. This ascent was apparently the third. One other party (according to the register) summited in 2011.