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|Type: ||Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 240', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c C1 [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, Layne Potter, John Glime. 16th June, 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Best in 100f|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Jun 19, 2008|
BETA PHOTO: Lads on top . First ascent of Horus Tower.Terrier ...
. Situated on the Weasel left of the central climb of Ozymandias. The detached tower in the shape of Horus the Egyptian Hawk God.A fun tower with great situations on the final pitch. The climb starts up the thinner right hand crack on the right side of the tower. P1)Climb a short easy chimney to a ledge then follow steep cracks on the right,odd free moves ,strenuous.( Now that its cleaned it might go free at about 5.10ish)The crack leads to a large sloping ledge at the gap between the tower and the main wall . Double anchors 160'5.8 C1/2 P2).Follow bolt ladder out left below the big roof to the exposed edge ,then straight up the face to a short slab ,climb this to a fine summit.80'5.6 C1. Register in cairn. Descent . Single 60m rope rap to the gap then double rope rap from top of P1 to the ground
On the Weasel formation just left of Ozymandias
Cams for first pitch:- Double rack from 1/2" to 3" then three # 3.5. two 4" two #5 friends and one # 6 friend might be of use. Stoppers. Slings ,about 15 quick draws /biners. Two 60m ropes .
Climb like an Egyptian...
BETA PHOTO: Route on Horus Tower.
Paul reaching the edge of the tower on Pitch 2. Ph...
John jumaring start of Pitch 2 . photo Layne Potte...
View from the summit looking south. photo Layne Po...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up to the Weasel from the camping area.. A...
What's next...... Layne with scope. Perfect desert...
Paul starting pitch 2 Photo L.Potter
On Summit looking north
John following Pitch 2. photo Layne Potter
John following pitch 2
Telephoto of the summit
|By John J. Glime|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 19, 2008
Actually a very fun route. You won't be disappointed.
|By Leonard Coyne|
Jun 29, 2008
Looks brilliant. I'll be stateside come Sept 08 with my mate (who you met Mick Haffner). Let's hook up and climb in the Swell,
Jun 29, 2008
Dear Leonard . Will be nice to see you both in the fall.However must point out that your team is obligated to provide the refreshments.Its an old San Rafael tradition. Actually the only reason we climb there (including the summer months) is in order to get a really good dehydration.So.....bring plenty
Jun 18, 2010
no known second ascent as of june 2010