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 ADVANCED
The Weasel Formation
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Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. T 
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry T 
Devastator Tower T 
Horus Tower T 
Little Weasel Spire T 
Live Free or Die Tower T 
Ozymandias T 
Rooster, The T 
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 
Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 

Horus Tower 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 240', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c C1 [details]
FA: Paul Ross, Layne Potter, John Glime. 16th June, 2008
New Route: Yes
Season: Best in 100f
Page Views: 1,919
Submitted By: USBRIT on Jun 19, 2008

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Climb like an Egyptian...

Description 

. Situated on the Weasel left of the central climb of Ozymandias. The detached tower in the shape of Horus the Egyptian Hawk God.A fun tower with great situations on the final pitch. The climb starts up the thinner right hand crack on the right side of the tower. P1)Climb a short easy chimney to a ledge then follow steep cracks on the right,odd free moves ,strenuous.( Now that its cleaned it might go free at about 5.10ish)The crack leads to a large sloping ledge at the gap between the tower and the main wall . Double anchors 160'5.8 C1/2 P2).Follow bolt ladder out left below the big roof to the exposed edge ,then straight up the face to a short slab ,climb this to a fine summit.80'5.6 C1. Register in cairn. Descent . Single 60m rope rap to the gap then double rope rap from top of P1 to the ground

Location 

On the Weasel formation just left of Ozymandias

Protection 

Cams for first pitch:- Double rack from 1/2" to 3" then three # 3.5. two 4" two #5 friends and one # 6 friend might be of use. Stoppers. Slings ,about 15 quick draws /biners. Two 60m ropes .


Photos of Horus Tower Slideshow Add Photo
What's next...... Layne with scope. Perfect desert climbing weather at 99f..
What's next...... Layne with scope. Perfect desert...
John following pitch 2
John following pitch 2
Route on Horus Tower.
BETA PHOTO: Route on Horus Tower.
On Summit looking north
On Summit looking north
Paul reaching the edge of the tower on Pitch 2. Photo Layne Potter
Paul reaching the edge of the tower on Pitch 2. Ph...
Lads on top . First ascent of Horus Tower.Terrier thinking "what are those daft bugga's doing??
BETA PHOTO: Lads on top . First ascent of Horus Tower.Terrier ...
John jumaring start of Pitch 2 . photo Layne Potter
John jumaring start of Pitch 2 . photo Layne Potte...
Paul starting pitch 2 Photo L.Potter
Paul starting pitch 2 Photo L.Potter
View from the summit looking south. photo Layne Potter
View from the summit looking south. photo Layne Po...
John following Pitch 2. photo Layne Potter
John following Pitch 2. photo Layne Potter
Looking up to the Weasel from the camping area.. A). Summit of Horus Tower  B). Ozymandias.
BETA PHOTO: Looking up to the Weasel from the camping area.. A...
Telephoto of the summit
Telephoto of the summit

Comments on Horus Tower Add Comment
Show which comments
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 19, 2008

Actually a very fun route. You won't be disappointed.
By Leonard Coyne
Jun 29, 2008

Paul,

Looks brilliant. I'll be stateside come Sept 08 with my mate (who you met Mick Haffner). Let's hook up and climb in the Swell,

Best Regards,

Leonard Coyne
By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jun 29, 2008

Dear Leonard . Will be nice to see you both in the fall.However must point out that your team is obligated to provide the refreshments.Its an old San Rafael tradition. Actually the only reason we climb there (including the summer months) is in order to get a really good dehydration.So.....bring plenty
By Mr.K
Jan 5, 2014

Soloed this yesterday. Great route. It would be really fun to free. This ascent was apparently the third. One other party (according to the register) summited in 2011.