Saddle Sores 5.11
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| Type: | Sport, 115 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Scott Ayers |
| Season: | Morning Shade Until 2pm |
| Submitted By: | Hendrixson on Apr 2, 2012 |
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Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>
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Description Climb three bolts through blank-looking gray limestone to a ledge. Pull a powerful, delicate sequence that leads to a small overhang. Skirt this roof to the left. Finish with delicate but easier climbing to the anchors. This route is less sustained than most on the wall.
Location This route is on the right side of the prow. It is left of 'Don't Disrespect The Cattle' and two to the right of 'Morning Mate'.
Protection 18 bolts to leaver biners. A 70m rope is required.
By 1Eric Rhicard
Apr 26, 2012
rating: 5.11+
| The beginning gray face is hard and I was a little confused. Climbed up the ramp to the right until I could pull on and move left and up. Getting up and around the roof is hard and thin and I am guessing a tad easier if you don't need the little popcorn crimp for the right hand. I enjoyed the fight and might have missed something but have to give it 11+. |
By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 27, 2012
| Has anyone done it without the popcorn crimp? I had to cross into a right hand crimp right below the roof. As did Scott if I recall.
Nice onsight EFR! It took me a couple attempts. |
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
May 7, 2012
rating: 5.12-
| Yeah......11 ha ha. |
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