Horseshoes and Handgrenades
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This route follows the short, vertical crack, past...
This starts right behind the big cottonwood, and you should stay aware of this same tree as you proceed, cause if you come off on toprope in places you're headed right at it. (Don the hardhat, and tell your belayer to pay attention.) The rock is also questionable in places: two chunks came off as we climbed it, the first of which would have obliterated me (the belayer) if I'd been directly underneath the climber. So, the belayer should stand off to the left, which gives you a better view anyway...
Still want to climb this thing? Take the direct bouldery start up sharp stone, then follow the short crack system before striking up and left at the bulge, about 25 feet up. An alternate would be to continue right with the crack which soon becomes overhanging and probably a bit tougher than the line I've just described.
It is a cool climb, in spite of the little risks involved. This one hasn't been climbed much; there's no chalk evident.
Chain anchors on top, but you have to look for them. The other sets of anchors here are more obvious. Add long slings to decrease rope drag.
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
May 30, 2007
The anchors for this route consist of a more modern, bolt hanger and what almost looks like a handmade or just older angle iron boxy hanger. The chains are rusty but probably fine. Use your own slings.
Mar 3, 2009
The anchors for this route look very precarious.... I would be careful using them, and at least back them up.