Horseshoes and Hand Grenades
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Marko Sturm on 'Horseshoes and Hand Grenades', Tuo...
This is the aesthetic right leaning splitter to the right of Do or Fly. Easy climbing leads to the crux, slightly overhanging thin hand jams and ring locks. After that you get good finger locks for about ten feet which then leads into wide hand jams up to the top. Belay off the tree.
TCU's and a few medium nuts. Camolots from .5 to 3, maybe doubles in .75 and 1.
By Nat Lim
Sep 23, 2009
A 3.5 Camalot is useful on this route
By Neil Rankin
From: Greensboro, NC
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
A boulder problem crux, followed by a cool, steep overhanging dihedral. A little bit of finesse is all you need after the crux, because there are funky rests and good hand jams.