Horseshoe Wall Rock Climbing
BETA PHOTO: A layout of the major climbing routes on Mt. Wilso...
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This awesome and under-visited wall is home to several substantial Grade IV trad routes. Spanning the distance between the Fin on the left and Resolution Arete on the right, the Horseshoe Wall towers above the Sherwood Forest in one of the most beautiful expanses of stone at Red Rocks. For the most part the routes are serious and involved, but outstanding all the same.
Historical note by Larry DeAngelo: As the obvious "giant" of escarpment, the east side of Mount Wilson got a lot of attention from the earliest Red Rock pioneers. John Williamson was just a kid when he began exploring the wall with his friends in 1966 and 1967. They wore their tennis shoes, tied in directly with a goldline rope, and carried a small collection of steel carabiners and knifeblade pitons. On their initial attempts, they did not get very far. However, some of the names they coined were the first Red Rock feature names coined by climbers. "Willy's Couloir" was their name (John's friends called him by the nickname "Willy"). "Sherwood Forest" was what they called the huge wooded ledge system halfway up the face. As adventurous thirteen-year-olds, they were fans of Robin Hood.
Williamson's scouting (and persistence) ultimately paid off in 1970, when he and Keith Hogan completed a route to the summit. They navigated up Willy's Couloir, crossed to the right through Sherwood Forest, and climbed the northern headwall to the top. The following year Joe Herbst (who did not know John and Keith, and was unaware of their ascent) soloed directly to the northern edge of Sherwood Forest and continued up the top part of their route.
Joe's solo climb was done on the day before his wedding. The ascent was not as casual as it may sound. Although it took over thirty years until the route found its way into a guidebook (Sentimental Journey IV, 5.9), Joe said that he always considered that climb to be the pivotal moment in Red Rock, because it marked the beginning of "serious climbing."
Approach by any of the excellent routes on the lower routes like the Pink Tornados or the much easier Willy's Couloir. Either way expect a couple of hours of exertion to get to Sherwood Forest.
Climbing Season For the Mt. Wilson area.
Weather station 1.8 miles from here
6 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Horseshoe Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Horseshoe Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Horseshoe Wall:
Dogma 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport, Grade V
Featured Route For Horseshoe Wall
Gwondonna Land Boogie 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a NV
: Red Rock
: ... : Horseshoe Wall
Start off of Sherwood Forest about 200' right of the start to the route Scotty, up hill from the big trees. This route is very sustained and thoughtful. Climb up through crack systems, thin corners and roofs all the way up to the mid wall horizontal ledge system with large trees. You are in fact aiming for the first big tree on the ledge. Traverse left along the horizontal ledge to the base of the prominent chimney/corner. Three solid pitches deposits you atop the wall and a magnificent panorama...[more] Browse More Classics in NV
Long approach, big rock Larry DeAngelo approaches...
Sherwood Forest south side
BETA PHOTO: Willy's Couloir and White Rot Gully.
Horseshoe Wall, right side.