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Horseshoe Cliff

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Fairytale Wall 

Horseshoe Cliff  


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Location: 34.9646, -101.6784 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,858
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jeremy Bauman on Aug 30, 2009
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Climbing Access Open - Keep a low profile. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Located next to the caves this cliff offers quality (for the canyon) rock and quite a lot of potential for new routes. The cliff is about 45ft at its tallest and is about 30ft on average. Though primarily a trad and TR area, there is some bouldering potential along the right side.

Getting There 

After driving down the big hill, continue down the road past the stables. As the road starts to turn left turn right into the parking lot for the caves. Hike up a broken trail to the base of the Horseshoe Cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 13.6 miles from here

3 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Horseshoe Cliff
The Three bad bolts

Three Blind Mice 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13  TX : Palo Duro Canyon State Park : ... : Fairytale Wall
This is one of the oldest climbs in the canyon that I know of. Climb straight up the crack in the dihedral until it becomes overhanging (5.6). Make a bomber anchor in the roof, then traverse left under and clip the three old 1/4 leeper hangers, but don't expect them to do anything as the last two are spinners (crux). Make your way up to the top and belay off of the trees via a ton of webbing or cord. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

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