Two small cliffs on either side of the entrance of Horse Gulch have friable rock, which once cleaned, yield enjoyable and dynamic climbing. The 40 foot cliff on the right has two leads while there's a fun TR up a dihedral & out roofs on the cliff to the left.
Getting There
For the 10 minute approach from the parking lot to the climbs, hike immediately right behind the building, across the small creek to the trail up the hill. Where it levels out go left and up to a rock shelf to gain the larger trail. Follow this to the first utility pole, then go left through the trees and drop down to the base of the cliff.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Horse Gulch:
Shares the same start with Petra's Wild Ride, but traverse L at ledge. (Alternately, flake and mantle on the left lead to ledge.) From here, aesthetic moves up a crack, then R on jugs and over bulge to anchor. ...[more]Browse More Classics in CO
A hundred feet or so up the trail, at the sharp left turn, there is a roof-crack boulder problem on the left. It may be complete junk, as I have never tried it (muddy/shale landing), but it looked kinda fun....
O.K.-- It's true, I do have a thing for choss, short or long, ledgy or overhung, it doesn't matter where, I'll try it.... As far as what this place is best for -- qué será, será!
Matthias, I'd rather be climbing the choss you put up than doing the umpteenth lap on socially acceptable choss at The Golf Wall. Funny how choss is a matter of perspective. The guidebook to Rifle starts out with saying "Rifle is truly a pile", or something to that effect. To all the haters: If you don't like choss, leave the San Juans - you're out of your element; go sport climbing somewhere. If you don't mind a little adventure, enjoy it for what it is.
BTW, thanks for posting all the pix of you and Joel getting after it. It's a slice of Dgo history.
If someone posts pix of anyone riding down the horse gulch cliffs, I will be impressed....
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