Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | B. Molzon, D. Shori, Nov. 1977 |
Page Views: | 3,549 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Nov 14, 2006 |
Admins: | Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek |
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Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
A good climb with mostly good gear, but a few tricky spots getting around bulges. In 1990 my climbing partner managed to fall with his foot tangled in the rope on lead. After I carried him out over my shoulder, we took a trip to the hospital to treat his concussion and to get stitches in his back where a "chunk" had been torn out. Needless to say, when I later led this route it was with some anticipation and fear, though it turned out to be unwarranted.
To climb this route, scramble up a few moves to reach a bit of a ledge at the base of the main corner. Place good protection and start off on a series of sequences and rests. The key is to go when the going is good and stop to place at the rest stances on jams, stems, and good ledges. Continue up past each ledge encountered to the top of the corner system and then left on the final ledge to the crack on the left side. Belay from a tree on top.
While there are a few ledges with trees (and rap stations with slings), proper use of slings make this good as a single long pitch.
To descend, make a single rap on 2 ropes, or rap the route in reverse, stopping at belays as necessary on the way down. Unless something has changed, I believe it is 2 raps with a 60M but a 50M rope may require 3.
To climb this route, scramble up a few moves to reach a bit of a ledge at the base of the main corner. Place good protection and start off on a series of sequences and rests. The key is to go when the going is good and stop to place at the rest stances on jams, stems, and good ledges. Continue up past each ledge encountered to the top of the corner system and then left on the final ledge to the crack on the left side. Belay from a tree on top.
While there are a few ledges with trees (and rap stations with slings), proper use of slings make this good as a single long pitch.
To descend, make a single rap on 2 ropes, or rap the route in reverse, stopping at belays as necessary on the way down. Unless something has changed, I believe it is 2 raps with a 60M but a 50M rope may require 3.
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