Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
FA: B. Molzon, D. Shori, Nov. 1977
Page Views: 3,549 total · 17/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 14, 2006
Admins: Shirtless Mike, DrRockso RRG, Luke Cornejo, Billy Simek

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

A good climb with mostly good gear, but a few tricky spots getting around bulges. In 1990 my climbing partner managed to fall with his foot tangled in the rope on lead. After I carried him out over my shoulder, we took a trip to the hospital to treat his concussion and to get stitches in his back where a "chunk" had been torn out. Needless to say, when I later led this route it was with some anticipation and fear, though it turned out to be unwarranted.

To climb this route, scramble up a few moves to reach a bit of a ledge at the base of the main corner. Place good protection and start off on a series of sequences and rests. The key is to go when the going is good and stop to place at the rest stances on jams, stems, and good ledges. Continue up past each ledge encountered to the top of the corner system and then left on the final ledge to the crack on the left side. Belay from a tree on top.

While there are a few ledges with trees (and rap stations with slings), proper use of slings make this good as a single long pitch.

To descend, make a single rap on 2 ropes, or rap the route in reverse, stopping at belays as necessary on the way down. Unless something has changed, I believe it is 2 raps with a 60M but a 50M rope may require 3.

Location Suggest change

On the far right end of the Fortress wall, perhaps 100 feet from the NE corner of the inside of the amphitheatre, there is a very large corner with a few bulges in it. The cracks and corner are the climb "Horny Bitch."

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack to 3".

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