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Coke Bottle
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Horn's Mother 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: FFA: D. McClure & M, Hesse, 73 (J. Horn '65 with aid),
Page Views: 13,162
Submitted By: Tony B on May 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (41)
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Description 

Horn's Mother is the overhanging, leaning, off-fist crack to the right of Edward's Crack on the Coke Bottle, of Walt's Wall. It is shaded in the Walt's Wall photo, attached.

The route is a must for lover's of offwidth, but it will abuse the wide-crack virgins. The two guys that followed me loved it, but they lost both Pride and blood on the route. From the first belay, one can walk two #4 Camalots up the crack for 40' or so with an occasional rest until the crack begins to taper down. Be prepared to overheat on the strenuous climb. People with small hands may find the climb hard at its grade. People with large hands might find it easier.

Protection 

The crux is 10-15 feet from the ground pulling out of a small roof/overhang a few moves above a 3-4" cam. 25-30' up there is a fixed belay. From there, the pro goes to #4 Camalots for 40 feet, until the crack begins to taper down, gradually narrowing to 2 inches at the top. Fixed anchors are at the top and a 70m rope will get you down with minimal effort. A single 50m can be used if you make 2 rappels onto Walt's Wall.


Photos of Horn's Mother Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo by Wade David. wadedavid.com/
Photo by Wade David. wadedavid.com/
Rock Climbing Photo: Keen Butterworth stroking the Horn's Mother.
Keen Butterworth stroking the Horn's Mother.
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers on the second pitch.
Climbers on the second pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Horn's Mother... she's a beaut!
Horn's Mother... she's a beaut!
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber on Horn's mother.
Unknown climber on Horn's mother.
Rock Climbing Photo: After The Storm.
After The Storm.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dan getting the OS!
Dan getting the OS!
Rock Climbing Photo: I was just a tasty snack for this hungry beast.
I was just a tasty snack for this hungry beast.
Rock Climbing Photo: Angus Weissner belayed by Dustin Clelen.
Angus Weissner belayed by Dustin Clelen.
Rock Climbing Photo: Continuing smoothly but with effort.
Continuing smoothly but with effort.
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Jenkins battling with Horn's Mother.
Mark Jenkins battling with Horn's Mother.
Rock Climbing Photo: Just after the bolted belay.  Unknown climber, Aug...
Just after the bolted belay. Unknown climber, Aug...
Rock Climbing Photo: Horn's Mother.
Horn's Mother.
Rock Climbing Photo: Unknown climber cruising the exit.
Unknown climber cruising the exit.
Rock Climbing Photo: So many feet on the Horn's Mother....photo of Bret...
So many feet on the Horn's Mother....photo of Bret...
Rock Climbing Photo:
BETA PHOTO

Comments on Horn's Mother Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 8, 2014
By Erik Corkran
Aug 7, 2001

This is a great route, crux is tough (thanks Tony for leading it after I fell off a few times). 2nd pitch very sustained also.
By Mike Bentley
Aug 16, 2001

What? Who designed this page, Horns is on the Coke Bottle not Walt's wall. Minor detail I know, but with a decent guide book around, at least the route locations should be correct. It is however a great route.
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 10, 2002

I also walked a couple large cams up what would be the second pitch. This created some problems for my second. In a fall, he would have swung left onto Walt's Wall with no possible way to get back on route. I pity the foo' who has to lower, and climb that nasty crux again.
By TBD
Aug 9, 2004

"but lost both Pride and blood on the route" - I resemble that comment. This route is very sustained and requires a tremendous outlay of energy. The first short pitch may be a bit of a sandbag, but I'm a relative fist crack newb.
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Oct 1, 2006

I was the "foo" who had to lower and climb that nasty crux again, and again, and again...
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
May 4, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I would agree that this is a possible sandbag (unless you have huge hands like Bob S.). At the crux I had to shove my whole arm in the crack to get a fist jam, but was only able to get one arm in at a time which made upward progress a little problematic.
By Squatting Bear
Aug 14, 2008

I didn't see a fixed anchor either and used #1 cams and #3 cams to build one. I would also add that rapping from the chains atop 4th July crack with a 70 meter rope won't get you down with minimal effort. However, if you go to the ends of your rope, you should be at a small ledge partway up walt's wall, and an easy down climb will get you to the dirt.
By Nate26
Sep 14, 2008

Great route. Quite an effort. More of a fist crack than a real ow for me.
By Larry Bruce
Apr 29, 2009

Wow, what a shot with the guy doing this with shorts on, guy is a dude!
By James Beissel
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I don't see how anything you can fit your whole hand inside could possibly be....

Nevermind.

5.11a.

I love this climb.
By john strand
From: southern colo
Sep 2, 2010

We met Big Bob doing this in '83- he told us it was 10. Hanging out with Connie was way more fun.
By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Aug 27, 2011

Just for the record, this 4 star meg-classic, FULLY sandbagged 11a can bite me.
By Joe Forrester
From: Palo Alto
Jun 8, 2014

Excellent line. The crux pitch is fun, but the money is on the second pitch. Get some....

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