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Hornets Nest

Select Route:
Anaphylactic Shock S 
Beetle Juice S 
Butterfly S 
Lonesome Cowboy T,S,TR 
Mothra S 
Mr. Critical S 
Pollinator, The S 
Second Hand Rose Arete S 
Swarm S 
W.A.S.P. (center variation start) T,S 

Hornets Nest  


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Page Views: 20,106
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 16, 2002
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CE nearing the top of Mr. Critical on sight, a ste...

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Description 

This rock and Shipyard Rock are the two large formations in the South Seas area. Hornets' Nest has many fine routes on it, many of which are very difficult. The average rating is probably around 5.11, but routes vary from 5.4 to 5.13 on its various faces. Mr. Critical, Second Hand Rose, and WASP are all very fun routes. Hornets' Nest is made up mostly of routes requiring only quickdraws, but a few routes require gear as well. To descend, pick one of many fixed anchor rappels, and bring two ropes.

Getting There 

Walk into the South Seas sign-in area. There are two large formations straight ahead. Shipyard Rock is the one on the right, and Hornets' Nest is on the left. Many routes start on this face, but for others, follow the trail around its base.

Climbing Season



Weather station 0.9 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',2],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hornets Nest:
Second Hand Rose Arete   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 155'   
W.A.S.P. (center variation start)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   
The Pollinator   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Anaphylactic Shock   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Mr. Critical   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
Beetle Juice   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Lonesome Cowboy   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, TR, 100'   
Butterfly   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Classics in Hornets Nest

Featured Route For Hornets Nest
Rusty Lewis on Mothra (5.13a), Mt. Rushmore. Photo by Mike Lewis from Climbing #116 (October/November 1989).

Mothra 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Hornets Nest
A cold weather route. You'll need every bit of friction (and skin) you can get for the thin biters that lead up to a slopey finishing crux. Very balancy. Decent rest right before crux. The insecure ending makes it real exciting to reach the anchors. Just as good as 'Butterfly' and 'Beetle Juice', if not better....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Hornets Nest Slideshow Add Photo
Travis nearing the top of Mr. Critical and Aaron on the summit.
Travis nearing the top of Mr. Critical and Aaron o...
Travis on Mr. Critical and Aaron on Second Hand Rose.
Travis on Mr. Critical and Aaron on Second Hand Ro...

Comments on Hornets Nest Add Comment
Show which comments
By Monomaniac
Administrator
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 2, 2008
Its possible to rap from the summit anchor atop WASP/Pollinator to the ground in one rap with a single 70m cord, with some easy downclimbing. Aim for the chasm between Hornet's Nest & Shipyard Rock. Its pretty close, so tie knots in the rope ends.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
May 29, 2012
As far as I can tell, these are the routes left L-->R starting from the Northeast (approx) face:

1) Pollinator 10b/c (variation to WASP)
2) WASP 9

These three are located on the north facing panel:
3) Butterfly 12c/d
4) Mothra 13a
5) Beetlejuice 12a/b

North west face corridor
6) Swarm 12b
7) Anaphalytic Shock 11-

West face directly next to the trail:
8) Mr Critical 11
9) Critical Cowboy ?
10) Lonesome Cowboy 12+
11) Second Hand Rose Arete 6