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This rock and Shipyard Rock are the two large formations in the South Seas area. Hornets' Nest has many fine routes on it, many of which are very difficult. The average rating is probably around 5.11, but routes vary from 5.4 to 5.13 on its various faces. Mr. Critical, Second Hand Rose, and WASP are all very fun routes. Hornets' Nest is made up mostly of routes requiring only quickdraws, but a few routes require gear as well. To descend, pick one of many fixed anchor rappels, and bring two ropes.
Walk into the South Seas sign-in area. There are two large formations straight ahead. Shipyard Rock is the one on the right, and Hornets' Nest is on the left. Many routes start on this face, but for others, follow the trail around its base.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Hornets Nest
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hornets Nest:
Second Hand Rose Arete 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Sport, 1 pitch, 155'
W.A.S.P. (center variation start) 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 165'
The Pollinator 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Anaphylactic Shock 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Mr. Critical 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Beetle Juice 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Lonesome Cowboy 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b Trad, Sport, TR, 100'
Butterfly 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Hornets Nest
Second Hand Rose Arete 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Hornets Nest
Most of this very good route is only 5.5 or so. Just left of the Sharkstooth and the All Tuckered Out, look for a pod with crystals leading up to an appealing narrow ridge. Alternatively, there is a bolted variation on the face just left of the pod and black water streak.Climb the face to the right at 5.6 to gain the ridge. The easy 5.5 ridge is one of the best pieces of climbing at Rushmore - fun, exposed, and very unique climbing. There are chains at the top now. A 60 meter line makes it ...[more] Browse More Classics in SD