Hornets Nest Rock Climbing
CE nearing the top of Mr. Critical on sight, a ste...
This rock and Shipyard Rock are the two large formations in the South Seas area. Hornets' Nest has many fine routes on it, many of which are very difficult. The average rating is probably around 5.11, but routes vary from 5.4 to 5.13 on its various faces. Mr. Critical, Second Hand Rose, and WASP are all very fun routes. Hornets' Nest is made up mostly of routes requiring only quickdraws, but a few routes require gear as well. To descend, pick one of many fixed anchor rappels, and bring two ropes.
Walk into the South Seas sign-in area. There are two large formations straight ahead. Shipyard Rock is the one on the right, and Hornets' Nest is on the left. Many routes start on this face, but for others, follow the trail around its base.
Weather station 0.9 miles from here
11 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Hornets Nest
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hornets Nest
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hornets Nest:
Mr. Critical 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Swarm 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 105'
Butterfly 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Featured Route For Hornets Nest
W.A.S.P. (center variation start) 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a SD
: Mount Rushmore National Mem...
: ... : Hornets Nest
This is a nice solid 5.9 which is consistent and fun. The Bottom third is blocky/oververtical with big holds. The middle gets thin with nice little crimps. When in doubt, (you'll know it when you get there)go left even though there are temptations to the right. The distinct crux is at about halfway. The cracks at the bottom are protectable with nuts or small cams and is one variation to W.A.S.P. The bolted route "pollinator" about 8 feet right of the crack also appears to be an e...[more] Browse More Classics in SD
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 2, 2008
Its possible to rap from the summit anchor atop WASP/Pollinator to the ground in one rap with a single 70m cord, with some easy downclimbing. Aim for the chasm between Hornet's Nest & Shipyard Rock. Its pretty close, so tie knots in the rope ends.
By Scotty Nelson
May 29, 2012
As far as I can tell, these are the routes left L-->R starting from the Northeast (approx) face:
1) Pollinator 10b/c (variation to WASP)
2) WASP 9
These three are located on the north facing panel:
3) Butterfly 12c/d
4) Mothra 13a
5) Beetlejuice 12a/b
North west face corridor
6) Swarm 12b
7) Anaphalytic Shock 11-
West face directly next to the trail:
8) Mr Critical 11
9) Critical Cowboy ?
10) Lonesome Cowboy 12+
11) Second Hand Rose Arete 6