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Hornets Nest

Select Route:
Anaphylactic Shock S 
Beetle Juice S 
Butterfly S 
Hornet's Chimney T 
Lonesome Cowboy T,S,TR 
Mothra S 
Mr. Critical S 
Pollinator, The S 
Second Hand Rose Arete S 
Swarm S 
W.A.S.P. (center variation start) T,S 

Hornets Nest Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Housiaux, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 16, 2002
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CE nearing the top of Mr. Critical on sight, a ste...

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This rock and Shipyard Rock are the two large formations in the South Seas area. Hornets' Nest has many fine routes on it, many of which are very difficult. The average rating is probably around 5.11, but routes vary from 5.4 to 5.13 on its various faces. Mr. Critical, Second Hand Rose, and WASP are all very fun routes. Hornets' Nest is made up mostly of routes requiring only quickdraws, but a few routes require gear as well. To descend, pick one of many fixed anchor rappels, and bring two ropes.

Getting There 

Walk into the South Seas sign-in area. There are two large formations straight ahead. Shipyard Rock is the one on the right, and Hornets' Nest is on the left. Many routes start on this face, but for others, follow the trail around its base.

Climbing Season

Weather station 0.9 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Hornets Nest

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Hornets Nest:
Second Hand Rose Arete   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 155'   
W.A.S.P. (center variation start)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 165'   
Hornet's Chimney   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
The Pollinator   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 110'   
Anaphylactic Shock   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   
Mr. Critical   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 140'   
Beetle Juice   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Lonesome Cowboy   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, TR, 100'   
Butterfly   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Hornets Nest

Featured Route For Hornets Nest
Rock Climbing Photo: beetlejuice

Beetle Juice 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a  SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Hornets Nest
The opening moves lead to an encounter with the goat's head horn. This route follows the left side of the arete and features great edges, mutated crystals and some really wild wind sculpted holds. The crux is near the top but there tends to be cruxes at all ten bolts. No one move wonder! A beautiful route... not recommended for Crimp-Pansies....[more]   Browse More Classics in SD

Photos of Hornets Nest Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Travis nearing the top of Mr. Critical and Aaron o...
Travis nearing the top of Mr. Critical and Aaron o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Travis on Mr. Critical and Aaron on Second Hand Ro...
Travis on Mr. Critical and Aaron on Second Hand Ro...

Comments on Hornets Nest Add Comment
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By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 2, 2008
Its possible to rap from the summit anchor atop WASP/Pollinator to the ground in one rap with a single 70m cord, with some easy downclimbing. Aim for the chasm between Hornet's Nest & Shipyard Rock. Its pretty close, so tie knots in the rope ends.
By Scotty Nelson
From: Boulder
May 29, 2012
As far as I can tell, these are the routes left L-->R starting from the Northeast (approx) face:

1) Pollinator 10b/c (variation to WASP)
2) WASP 9

These three are located on the north facing panel:
3) Butterfly 12c/d
4) Mothra 13a
5) Beetlejuice 12a/b

North west face corridor
6) Swarm 12b
7) Anaphalytic Shock 11-

West face directly next to the trail:
8) Mr Critical 11
9) Critical Cowboy ?
10) Lonesome Cowboy 12+
11) Second Hand Rose Arete 6

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