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> I. Glacier Poin…
> 3. The Grack Area
Hoppy's Favorite
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British R
Avg: 2 from 4 votes
Type: | Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | Dennis Oakeshott and Verne Clevenger, 1974 |
Page Views: | 1,141 total · 10/month |
Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Nov 24, 2014 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron
Details
According to Yosemite's website in 2016, Glacier Point Apron is open to climbing, but the Park Service does not recommend climbing there due to recent and ongoing rockfall.
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Named for the brand of milk you could buy at the Village store. The upper three pitches of this route are pretty fun. Unfortunately, the second pitch is 5.8 and unprotected. As Verne put it, 'to keep the riff raff off.' Luckily, there are a lot of other moderately protected routes on the Apron for those who don't like death leads.
Pitch 1(5.6) - climb a crack or 3rd class to the right to a ledge with a small tree and belay.
Pitch 2(5.8) - friction straight up, with no pro, to a two-bolt belay. Note - it is possible to bypass the first two pitches by climbing in from the Grack Left Side route.
Pitch 3(5.10a)- head straight up to a small ledge then traverse right past two bolts to a small left facing dihedral then climb up to a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 4(5.10b) - climb up and slightly left past 4 bolts then traverse left(crux) past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 5(5.10a) - climb up past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 1(5.6) - climb a crack or 3rd class to the right to a ledge with a small tree and belay.
Pitch 2(5.8) - friction straight up, with no pro, to a two-bolt belay. Note - it is possible to bypass the first two pitches by climbing in from the Grack Left Side route.
Pitch 3(5.10a)- head straight up to a small ledge then traverse right past two bolts to a small left facing dihedral then climb up to a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 4(5.10b) - climb up and slightly left past 4 bolts then traverse left(crux) past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
Pitch 5(5.10a) - climb up past two bolts to a two-bolt anchor.
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