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Holderness Corner
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Flesh For Lulu S 
Holderness Arete S 
Holderness Finish T 
Holderness School Corner T 
Hope For Movement S 
White Rhino S 

Hope For Movement 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,471
Submitted By: Maurice Liddy on May 31, 2007

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That one strong indian dude thats always around ru...
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Description 

The route immediately to the left of Flesh for Lulu. Long and excellent also although not as perfect as its neighbor. Easy start to a somewhat tricky bulge. Rest on the ledge before heading up and left through another 50 feet of really fun, sustained climbing. Awkward finish detracts from the route in my humble opinion. But still very high quality.


Protection 

10 bolts to fixed clips.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 17, 2011
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 31, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

So, a start from the ground has been added I take it?
It was 6 bolts starting from the ledge/boulders up and left of the start for Flesh....
It makes sense to start from the ground....

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 31, 2007

I've always started from the ground. It seems less sketchy than scrambling up on the ledge.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
May 31, 2007
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b

Even when there weren't bolts?

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
May 31, 2007

I think some bolts have been below the ledge for a while now. I'm not sure about the history of the bolts on this wall. After all, Flesh for Lulu seems to have grown bolts over the years (not that I'm complaining, mind you).

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 1, 2007

I've did a fair amount of belaying for this climb about 2 years ago, I think that the bolts were relatively new when my climbing partner was projecting this route, maybe as little as 6 months old.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jan 7, 2009

The first ascent was done by Duncan McCallum 5/88, and was originally called Hope For Donna and was a less direct route that it is now.

By Dave Jacobson
Dec 4, 2010

No offense but Duncan did not get the first ascent of this climb. There were three groups going for the first ascent. Duncan wanted to call it hope for donna, he left the states before completion. Scott stephenson was working on it and wanted to call it infinite movement. I got the first ascent with john mallory belaying and called it hope for movement. Ah, those were the days!

By Dave Jacobson
Dec 4, 2010

Oh yeah, I rated it 12.c

By S. Neoh
Dec 4, 2010

I happen to think, aesthetics wise, it is better that the route now has its start from the ground. The lower section of rock was rather dirty and unappealing before someone (anyone know who?) cleaned it and put in the bolts (which I do not recall seeing until the past few years).

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 4, 2010

Sorry about the mis-information I got my info from the old Rumney guidebook and the new guide say the FA was Paul Cousar. Hopefully in the next edition it will get it right for you :)

By Jerry Handren
Dec 4, 2010

ok lets clear things up a bit.
Duncan McCallum did the first ascent of Hope for Donna in the spring of 1988 in a pretty impressive one day ascent, after bolting then route the previous day.
The route went up to that sloping shelf after the crux, then moved right to finish up the original finish of Flesh For Lulu which was up the center of the headwall to the left of where Flesh finishes now.
Next year Scott prepped but did not complete a left-hand finish which went up the thin crack/seam off the left end of the shelf (past a pin in those days I believe). Dave finished off Scotts project later that summer (1989?) and the route was called Hope for Movement.

Duncans route was a good bit harder than the L hand finish and, I always felt, a better way of doing the route since it made it longer and a lot pumpier, but off course that meant fiddling in a tiny wire in the middle of the headwall, so Scotts/Daves version became the standard route.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Dec 5, 2010

Awesome thanks for the history, glad its all cleared up :)

By Dave Jacobson
Dec 11, 2010

Hey Jerry, How is it going? Long time no see. Still climbing? If you are ever out in Rifle drop me a line. Hope all is well with you. davej1222@hotmail.com

By snowdenroad
Jan 10, 2011

Hey Dave J! Paul Cousar here. I do remember climbing that pitch in early june of 1989, just prior to moving out west, but did not realize it was a FA. I was in Rumney Oct 2009 and ran into folks who mentioned it was 'corrected' in the new guide. My wife then teased me for a couple of weeks for not remembering the FA.... And it may not have been... That was many moons ago and I was pretty wrapped up in Kundalini those last months I was in town.

Hope all is well.

EDIT TO ADD: regardless of who sent first, I hope the guide mentions Scott's name since he did the hard part, bolting and cleaning.

By Dave Jacobson
Jan 24, 2011

Yo Paul! It has been a long time, still climbing? Please drop me a line at davej1222@hotmail.com. I live in colorado not far from Rifle. Hope all is well with you. Would love to hear from you.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Jul 17, 2011

I was happy to get on this for the first time earlier today. I thought this route had some really enjoyable climbing up to the last draw. The sun was coming around the corner and baking me so I came down before figuring out the final sequence to the anchor. Reading that this has an "awkward finish" mades me feel a little bit better. I blocked the sun with my hand for a few minutes trying to figure out what might work. It seems like the final few hand holds are slopey crimps? or was I missing something. Any thoughts?