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(03) Bivi Wall/Swallow Wall
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D.D.M. S 
Hookymaster General S,TR 
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My Three Girls [M3G] S,TR 
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Hookymaster General 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Michael LaPlante
Page Views: 213
Submitted By: Alexander Nees on Apr 24, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: On the varnished face above the many horizontal le...

Description 

A fun route that is perhaps slightly soft for the grade, and suffers from too many hands-free resting ledges. An interesting start on very sandy, overhanging horizontal rails leads to a good ledge. Above is a steep, varnished face with only just as many holds as you need. This face is both the crux and the highlight. Above is another ledge and the final bolt. The wall overhangs steeply above the final ledge. Moving left and topping out as soon as possible is easiest, while moving up and right directly over the overhang on bomber holds is harder and more fun.

Location 

Look for the only boltline on the left side of the massive inside corner that defines the Swallow Wall. Big, sandy horizontals are the most obvious feature of the lower part of the route.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Bring long slings for the anchor if you want a clean lower, or you're looking to TR.


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By Derek Lawrence
From: Bailey
May 6, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

A lot of fun! funky anchors on top