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Valley Massif
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Hooker 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 1,712
Submitted By: Darin Lang on Sep 23, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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View of the Valley Massif.

Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is located in the large, left-facing dihedral on the Southeast side of Valley Massif, clearly visible on the approach. Scramble up to the base of the dihedral and then ascend the thin seam (crux) which widens after about 25-30 feet, exiting left under the roof via an easy, "stimulating" traverse. Belay on a small ledge just around the corner. Continue on easy ground to the top, or rappel here from slings. Adequate, although not effortless, protection can be had through the crux section with RPs and small Aliens.

Protection 

RPs to #4 Friend. Doubles in #3 and #4 Friend recommended.


Photos of Hooker Slideshow Add Photo
Sorry, no climber, but wanted to share <br />a photo of the area to highlight <br />where Hooker is.
Sorry, no climber, but wanted to share
a photo of ...
The very memorable, steep, thin crux of Hooker.
The very memorable, steep, thin crux of Hooker.

Comments on Hooker Add Comment
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By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Dec 31, 2001

Great route with a fairly soft rating(for Vedewoo!).We slung one of the big blocks under the roof and top-roped the face straight up the middle just to the left and it was fantastic! A little friable here and there but maybe worth bolting. Probably lld/12a.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 6, 2002

Too damn many bolts in Vadauwoo as it is. Climb all the other bolted slab routes first, then you'll see all slab routes are essentially the same, and not worth bolting. Please come enjoy our great trad routes, there are plenty of FA's on cracks waiting to be done, leave the drill at home. No one here respects new slab routes, it will only get you jeered at and scorned by the locals. Example - Heel and Toe authors, they really aren't liked or welcomed around here.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 23, 2002

Since when did the owner of the previous comment start speaking for everyone local to Vedauwoo? Personally, I find all this 'poor Laramie' garbage over the H&T guide book embarrassing. At least the Greenies have open minds. Even with the guide book, Vedauwoo gets nowhere near the traffic other areas have, and except for Central Vedauwoo, which is a hot spot for any newcomer, there are more than enough climbs to go around.I've seen some bolts installed by Vedauwoo locals this season too. Sounds like a double standard here.
By Joe Collins
Sep 29, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Heel & Toe makes the comment that the 10c rating takes into account the difficulty in protecting the first 25 feet. This didn't make any sense to me until I led it. The seam doesn't take gear, except for a few pin scars which only take cams. So in other words, if you want pro, you have to plug up the finger locks. I got a good RP just before what felt like the crux, but besides that, nut placements would probably be mank in the first half of the climb. A fun climb that is more reminiscent of Lumpy than Vedauwoo and is harder than it looks.

Too short to be a classic, but it shouldn't be missed if you make the hike out to the Valley Massif.

The best handholds get plugged up with cams at the hard parts (best to place the cams once you get past the fingerlocks). If you're better on slabs than cracks, which I am not, this might feel easy for Vedauwoo-10c.
By Joe Collins
Sep 29, 2003
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Oh... and another thing... placing a bolted line between Hooker and Blue Steel would be a squeezed eyesore. I gotta side with the disgruntled AC/Laramie local on this one. These are two very good gear lines separated by 15 feet at the most. Bolts on this face could conceiveably be clipped from either Blue Steel or Hooker. Keep it as TR and save the bolts for something else.
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2007

Maybe the best route at the crag.
By Kevin Presley
From: Loveland
Sep 27, 2011

I was able to protect the first section fairly comfortably with 00, 0, and 1 Master Cams. Extra #3 Camalots are nice for the upper section. The crux is kind of high above the smallest cam placement though.
By martinharris
From: Glenwood Springs CO
May 6, 2012

Place at your waist and the finger locks are still useful.
By Natilisk
From: Fort Collins, CO
Sep 22, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Awesome route! I was able to sew up the thin beginning with the help of some ball nuts, along with small Aliens and small stoppers as well. I only had the two smallest ball nut sizes but could have used some mids too. You can protect and still use the hold due to their small head size.