Hoodwink  5.10a

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Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 420 feet Consensus:  5.10a/b [details] FA:  Jim Bridwell, Rodger Breedlove, '72 Submitted By:  Nick Stayner on Jun 6, 2007 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

eric collins leading the hoodwink roof

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Description 

A strange but enjoyable route. Cruxes on the third and fourth pitches (check out the photo in the latest guidebook).
p1- Follow a straight-in handish crack to a shallow left facing corner. Mildly flaring jams. Short. 70', 5.8.
p2- Continue up this corner liebacking and sometimes jamming to a 10' slab traverse left towards an obvious ledge. Locate a pin and a pod for a purple camalot to belay off of. 140', 5.9
p3- Follow an easier right-facing corner up to the "6 foot" roof. It didn't seem quite that big, but my feet definitely cut. Clip a pin for protection and go for it. The pitch ends at bolts. 110', .10a.
p4- Climb some 5.10 slab moves up ever-mellowing terrain to a two-bolt belay. 100', 5.10a.

Location 

You can see the roof you're aiming for from the ground. Follow the corners up to it. Walk off to the left and descend the gully to the looker's left of Harlequin Dome.

Protection 

A wide range of gear. A fixed pin in the roof and bolts on the final slab pitch.

Photos of Hoodwink Slideshow

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Josh about to commit to the roof on Hoodwink.	Josh over the roof on Hoodwink.	Scott leading the Hoodwink roof. He is 6'2" so I'...
Scott seconding the hoodwink roof from the belay d...	A younger John Warren on Hoodwink roof in the 90's...

Comments on Hoodwink

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Show which comments — All Comments (6) Just Beta and Conditions (6) Just Conversational and Off-Topic (0)

By Michael Schneiter From: Glenwood Springs, CO Jul 7, 2009

Thought this route was super rad and makes for a great day (or afternoon) when combined with The Sting and By Hook Or By Crook.

By caughtinside From: Oakland CA Aug 12, 2009

1st two pitches link easily with 70m rope, and maybe even with a 60. 3rd pitch moves well right out the arch so sling looong and protect sparingly or suffer heinous rope drag. I had to do the move, lower down and unclip the two pins and redo the move, and the ropedrag for bringing up the second was still terrible much of the pitch. Fun roof pull!

By TylerW From: Flagstaff, AZ Feb 11, 2010 rating: 5.10b

Definitely a tough pull. The pin can be backed up by an green or yellow alien.

By C-Tuttle Sep 29, 2010

Supper fun route! Fun climbing the entire way up. Beware of rope drag on the third pitch, use lots of runners before the first little roof thing before the arch. The last 5.7 pitch was scary... or maybe I I just got lost on the slab... or maybe 5.7 slab is just too much for this one to muster. I don;t know.

By Matt N From: Santa Barbara, CA Jan 21, 2012

FA story by Breedlove www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=88565

By Fluoride From: Los Angeles, CA Sep 26, 2012

The traverse to the sick roof Submitted By: Fluoride on Sep 26, 2012 The first pitch is nothing like the rest of the route. I love the first pitch so much. But it's nothing like what's to come. Everything after is slick and dependent on good footwork. Linked the 5.9/5.7 together and it was great, less rope drag and we ended up in a better belay stance for the traverse to roof. The roof, I botched badly. I need to get solid on V3's to get over that thing solid. The 5.10a off the final pitch was joyous to me cause that's the style of climbing I like. The hanger less bolt from the FA is still there right above the first bolt.