Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
c. Moe (closure) to Harvest Moon
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ambien Knights 
As the cliff turns 
Beauty and the Skink 
Boston Tree Party 
Bush League 
Bush Lite 
By the Toe, direct start 
Coyote Crack 
Day Tripper 
Double Quacks 
Easter Time Too 
Good Friday Climb 
Gouda Climb 
Gunks Burghers 
Honky Tonk Woman 
Left meets Right 
One Way or Another 
Orc Stone 
Route Awakening 
Saving Face 
Saving Grace 
Serfs' Up 
Summer Breeze 
Whet Stone 
White Pillar 
Wolf and the Swine 
Woolly Clam Taco 
You're in the wrong place, my friend. 

Honky Tonk Woman 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Dave Loeks, 1971.
Page Views: 1,442
Submitted By: John Peterson on Apr 14, 2007
Good Page?0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Honky Tonk Woman meanders up this runout face.

Add Photo Add Comment    Printer View


This is an atypical Gunks route - rather than burly overhangs, it features delicate footwork on less-than-vertical rock. The protection rating is debatable since you can't really be sure of the tiny wires that protect the crux. I compensate by putting in lots of them.

The business starts after you clip the bolt -- climb a hard-to-protect groove to easier ground. Above, traverse left to a rap station atop White Pillar. A single rope gets you down.


Locate this by finding the obvious chimney of White Pillar; Honky Tonk Woman climbs the face to the right of the chimney. The bolt is about 20' up and serves as a way to definitively locate the route.


After clipping the bolt, the route takes mainly small wires. Bring a wide assortment and you'll probably get in enough gear to feel OK at the crux.

Photos of Honky Tonk Woman Slideshow Add Photo
Honky tonk woman
Honky tonk woman
Comments on Honky Tonk Woman Add Comment
Show which comments
Jun 27, 2009

I've led a reasonable number of 5.9s at the Gunks, and I'm usually a good face climber. This route had me desperate on TR! The holds are better-looking from below .... NB there's a fair amount of climbing (and an unfair amount of pro) before you get to the bolt.

By Dan Wachlaczenko
Mar 16, 2011

More head game than anything. I think you can use small pro before the bolt but nothing bomber, and from what I remember there is a little runout before you get to the huge horizontal at the top. Definitely TR first if your head isn't there.