|c. Moe (closure) to Harvest Moon
This is an atypical Gunks route - rather than burly overhangs, it features delicate footwork on less-than-vertical rock. The protection rating is debatable since you can't really be sure of the tiny wires that protect the crux. I compensate by putting in lots of them.
The business starts after you clip the bolt -- climb a hard-to-protect groove to easier ground. Above, traverse left to a rap station atop White Pillar. A single rope gets you down.
Locate this by finding the obvious chimney of White Pillar; Honky Tonk Woman climbs the face to the right of the chimney. The bolt is about 20' up and serves as a way to definitively locate the route.
After clipping the bolt, the route takes mainly small wires. Bring a wide assortment and you'll probably get in enough gear to feel OK at the crux.
Jun 27, 2009
I've led a reasonable number of 5.9s at the Gunks, and I'm usually a good face climber. This route had me desperate on TR! The holds are better-looking from below .... NB there's a fair amount of climbing (and an unfair amount of pro) before you get to the bolt.
|By Dan Wachlaczenko|
Mar 16, 2011
More head game than anything. I think you can use small pro before the bolt but nothing bomber, and from what I remember there is a little runout before you get to the huge horizontal at the top. Definitely TR first if your head isn't there.