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Short and Sweet 
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Honky Jam Ass Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,652
Submitted By: Tyler Jones on May 24, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (180)
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Nick Broeder leading Honkey Ass Jam Crack. Shot v...

Description 

This climb starts 10 feet left of Left Handed Jew. Begin by getting on top of a boulder at the base of the climb. Continue up through a beautiful 5.7 flake/crack. Move right into a large fist jam crack to finish the last 20 feet.

Protection 

Bring cams ranging from #0.75 Camalot to #3 Camalot. A toprope can be set up if you hike around to the right and find a large boulder at the top.


Photos of Honky Jam Ass Crack Slideshow Add Photo
BETA PHOTO
On the final moves. The climb exits right around the huge block to a belay amongst huge boulders.
On the final moves. The climb exits right around t...
Easily climbed with anchor next door.
Easily climbed with anchor next door.
Victor starting up Honky Jam !!!
Victor starting up Honky Jam !!!
Victor making his way up Honky Jam!
Victor making his way up Honky Jam!
Honky Jam.
Honky Jam.
Sally at the layback/flake section of Honky Jam. Fun, but sustained.
Sally at the layback/flake section of Honky Jam. F...
Cold jams.
Cold jams.
Frequent small ledges make it easy to place gear.
Frequent small ledges make it easy to place gear.

Comments on Honky Jam Ass Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 19, 2014
By Chris Fisher
Jun 13, 2001

Fun, short route. It is a great route for those who are starting to lead trad. The straight forward crack has hidden jugs inside of the crack that make it a great starter. Excellent rock quality.
By Scott Thompson
Nov 25, 2001

Excellent first 5.7 lead (it was mine): its short (unfortunately) and the gear is superb! Its nice to place a 2.5 Friend once on top of the boulder, but then beautiful stopper placements are everywhere. A 3.5 Friend is nice for your last piece in the large fist crack before the top!
By Chris Dawson
From: Denver, CO
Sep 20, 2004

Is this climb actually called Honky Jam Ass Crack? Seriously? I thought it was Honky Ass Jam Crack.... either way, good grief.
By Michael J Yarros
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jul 4, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Took Victor on his first crack climb. He did excellently.
By Larry Shaw
Aug 20, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This one felt a bit harder than the route to the right.
By Pat W
Jun 12, 2006

Nice route, eats up gear, bulletproof So Platte granite. Be careful setting up a toprope, there's a rope eating flake in the wide crack at the top. Set a directional off to the side to keep both strands out of the crack. Good stuff, more stars if it were longer.
By Count Chockula
From: Littleton, CO
Jul 16, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Well protected and sustained at the grade. Instead of climbing the offwidth section of crack straight up, I downclimbed and stepped across into the hand jam/lieback crack on LHJ to finish the pitch. I just couldn't get my hands deep enough for solid jams and I was pumped. Found this one section harder than any move on LHJ. Guess I need to work on my offwidth skills.
By Dave G
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 11, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I had a great time on Honky Jam and Left Hand today. Honky Jam was my first 5.7 lead climb and first primarily crack climb. The crack made for excellent cam placements so I felt pretty secure on lead. I was stuck for a while at the crux near the top, but finally trusted my hand jams and made it up a good fist jam. On top we set up a top rope (using 2 20-foot slings around some boulders) above Left Hand and then climbed that twice. Left Hand is a great crack climb. It may have been because I was leading, but I thought the crux on Honky Jam was a little harder than Left Hand's crux. The beauty of the area and today's perfect weather made this a fantastic day of climbing.
By Steve Knapp
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Nov 2, 2008

Led this route, one of my few true crack climbing leads. It was enjoyable with a tricky crux. The crux is about 2/3 way up where you really have to rely on the hand jams because the crack won't take feet there. This climb is great because you can jam the crack for practice as well as find other holds outside of the crack.
By sstrauss
From: Denver
Jan 25, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

It's an okay route. Look for the jugs deep in the crack. There are also features on the face to help out. You can really smear the face with the type of rock. Though Left Hand Jew is a much better route.
By Jordan Hirro
From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri
Nov 18, 2013

A fun, short route with great gear. Great for the beginning trad leader I'd say. As mentioned, look for jugs deep in the crack.
By William Thiry
From: Lakewood, CO
May 19, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

A little more difficult that Left Hand Jew - and not quite as good, this route might feel easier for people with bigger/meatier hands.