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YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 6a [details]
FA: New Route Fairy...
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: nbrown on Dec 8, 2012
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Wes following. Note: much steeper than it appear...


This is a fantastically overhanging pocket fest that is well worth climbing if you've got the guns. Unfortunately, the start has a large blank roof and requires use of the flimsy tree or possibly a trolley-start - but it's well worth the trouble.

P-1 Climb the flimsy tree to the first bolt just above the roof. From here, stand high and gain a horizontal (#2 or #3 camelot). Climb steep rock past another cam placement to a bolt and a move onto a ledge. A good knee bar rest or lie down rest can be had here. Once ready, fire up the overhanging wall on amazing pockets past bolts to the 2 bolt chain anchor lower off (fixed with biners).


East side, right. Just left of a very hard OW overhang/corner.


Hand sized cams between bolt 1-2, otherwise bolted.

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