Honesty in Climbing & the Burden of Proof
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The sporting achievements of UK strong-man Rich Simpson have recently come under scrutiny (see here and more deats here.) |
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As a "professional" athletes, sponsored by the outdoor industry for advancing the sport and acting as the public face of our sport, all sponsored athletes need to be able to prove their claims. Mountaineers have been doing it for decades (with photos) and have proved time and time again that people will create stories of success for public consumption. |
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Early onset of Altzheimers,,,,,can't remember anything. I'm using that excuse now that I'm old. |
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Been recovering from wisdom teeth surgery today and listening to an audio book by a well known mountaineer. I like his philosophy. It boils down to success isn't necessarily gauged by a predetermined outcome but how you handle yourself throughout the process. It seems that most of the folks that I look up to harbor this mentality. Some seem to get blown off track so easily when their sights are set upon something that they have attached their emotions to and the attainment aspect isn't going their way. |
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I just watched the obsession vid again, and its really interesting watching the last 3 minutes, which is presented as though that is the redpoint ascent, with people cheering at the end, and the camerman asking him "how did it feel?" and what not. |
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I don't really have any thoughts on Rich Simpson, aside from being bummed if he did exaggerate/lie about his achievements. I do have some general thoughts about the "Burden of Proof" in climbing. |
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After having a really cool guy in our circle of friends compulsively lie about his own climbing achievements for years, amongst other things, I can see that even non-professionals will fib for whatever reason. So there you have it. |
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Monomaniac wrote:Furthermore, the entire 26 minute video never shows him do what looks to me like the hardest individual move. (the move shown 19 seconds, and again at 26 & 36 seconds into this vid)Finally got a chance to watch the obsession vid. It is odd how the mono to mono dyno at the start of the headwall is clipped out of obsession. I've seen enough vids of Chris Sharma not sending something and talking about how it will be there next time and how much he would like to come back and finish the project someday. As far as I know he hasn't lost any sponsorships over that. I don't understand really what would be the motivation of Rich Simpson to use any sort of subterfuge. If that is the case it is rather disappointing. To be in the position of being an ambassador for a company, being sponsored by them, one would hope that the fellow would be stoked to share all the details of the experience in a humble honest way that really made you feel welcome to be a part of the Company, as though you were extended family. |
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Tim Fearn wrote: Finally got a chance to watch the obsession vid. It is odd how the mono to mono dyno at the start of the headwall is clipped out of obsession.For the move u are referring to, Iker Jumps from a LH mono to a RH two finger pocket. Rich jumps from a RH mono to a LH three finger pocket, which is the EXACT same hold that Iker uses, just a different sequence. The jump move is shown repeatedly around the 12:30 mark of Obsession. If you look at the four videos available of AD they show that Rich, Adam, Dai and Iker all climb the route in slightly different ways. |
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Honestly, I think it's between the climber and his/her sponsor. It's all just about the $$ anyway. If the company is happy spinning BS into gold, it makes no difference to me. If they want to can his ass for being a lying sack of sh*t, that's fine too. |
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A little Friday Reading on the subject: |