Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
East Ironing Board
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crackin' Up T 
East Ironing Board Traverse T 
Green Room S 
Hammer of Thor S 
Hand Crack T 
Honemaster Lambada S 
Hunka Hunka Burnin' Love S 
Hyperpolysyllabic T 
Que Rasca T 
Raven, The T 
Seam T 
Sinatra's World S 
Slave to the Rhythm S 
Smooth T 
Sunbreeze T 
Tommy Gun T 
Velvet Elvis S 

Honemaster Lambada 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Colin Lantz, 1991
Page Views: 996
Submitted By: Colin Lantz on Jul 30, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Colin Lantz on Honemaster Lambada. Photo: Greg Epp...

  • Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July: MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Start just right of Slave to the Rhythm. Undercling and kneebar out the huge, right-facing flake until you can gain some face holds back left moving up to the third bolt. After the fourth bolt, traverse hard right on perfect pebbles similar to the holds on Slave and catch a good rest in a right-facing corner. Now comes the hard part... thin face holds and pebbles lead up past the fifth, sixth, and seventh bolts. Now set up up for the final boulder problem dyno over the last bulge.

    Be sure to do the big king swing after cleaning your draws.

    FA: summer 1991.

    Protection 

    8 QDs with fixed anchors. It is a little difficult to clean QDs from the anchor (rope drag/rope shredder). I used to leave fixed QDs on the last two bolts and clean from those.


    Photos of Honemaster Lambada Slideshow Add Photo
    Climbing Magazine, Oct./Nov., 1991.
    Climbing Magazine, Oct./Nov., 1991.

    Comments on Honemaster Lambada Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Colin Lantz
    From: Nederland, CO
    Jul 30, 2012

    Similar to Slave but harder and much thinner. I'd give it 4 stars if it wasn't right next to Slave which is unquestionably a four star route. I think George Squibb did the 2nd ascent.
    By Curt MacNeill
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 22, 2012

    Anyone know if this route still goes? It looks like it sees no traffic whatsoever, and I have heard holds have broke making it harder than 14a. Anyone know anything new about this route as it seems to have been off the radar for quite sometime....
    By George Squibb
    From: Boulder, CO
    Apr 9, 2014
    rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a

    Thanks, Colin. Yes, I did the 2nd ascent on 10-10-97. Alex Honnold and Chris Weidner also both did the route in 2008. Tommy did it some time earlier.
    By j wharton
    Sep 29, 2014

    In the interest of saving someone's tips, I thought I'd post this conditions update.

    I tried this route today (9/29/14), and sadly I think it has broken. There was a section between the 5th and 6th bolts that's clearly missing a hold, at least to be 14a. I checked in with Chris Weidner (who I knew climbed the route in 2008), and he confirmed that Nick Martino broke a hold a few years ago, and he doesn't think it has been climbed since.

    It's still likely that the route would go, but the broken section seemed at least V10-ish. I also think the route has gotten slightly chossy and dirty from lack of traffic. If anyone has sent the route in its current state, I'd be curious to hear.

    Cheers!